Steven :
Ok, call me paranoid.
I don't use a filter for my air tools, because they don't need one, and I've
seen what comes out of the air hose even in the relatively dry climate I live
in. The 'cheap' air filters at best take the air down to 100% humidity at
whatever temperature and pressure is inside the filter, which may be fine for
painting, but leaves plenty of moisture in the air for conventional brake fluid
to suck out, or to condense in the reservoir on a cold night. I've also found
bits of air hose in the screens in my air tools (which is a sign the hose is
ready to be replaced). You'll note that professional 'power bleeders' always
use a diaphragm between the air source and the brake fluid.
I've had the experience of discovering I had no brakes _after_ starting down a
steep hill into a dead-end. It cost me a fairly decent TR3, and is not
something I care to repeat.
So, I'm going to continue to make sure that my shop air comes nowhere close to
my brake fluid, even after I install my new air filter (for painting).
Randall
On Tuesday, November 14, 2000 11:14 AM, Steven Newell
[SMTP:steven@cravetechnology.com] wrote:
>
> Randall, I've seen you mention the "dreck from the air line" a couple times.
> When I paint, I use an air filter inline before the paint gun, and I'd do the
> same
> thing with an air bleeder -- if I had one. Not meaning to be picky, but your
> concern is easily addressed with a cheap filter that should be used for just
> about any air tool anyway. There may be plenty of arguments for or against
> the
> various ways to bleed brakes, but dirty air lines isn't a strong one IMO.
>
> To restate, for those of you who Really Want To Buy Another Cool Tool, just
> get a couple air line filters too. <g>
>
> --
> Steven Newell
> Denver, CO
> '62 TR4
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