If you're using a nut cracker or drill grinder, you're not concerned with
saving the hardware. The drill grinder will be a long slow process, because
there's not much power in a drill, but the idea is right: Get the head or nut
end of the bolt off! An angle grinder, as suggested, will do it, but be an
artist, you don't want to mess up the metal around it.
If there's room, how about getting a sharp drill bit the size of the bolt
and drilling lengthwise, taking the nut end or head off, then punching out the
remaining part of the bolt? If you're accurate, there won't be any scarring of
the area that can be seen later.
(For the more advanced, an oxy-acetylene torch can be used to heat the nut to
cherry red, and unscrew it while still hot. But not around wood!) Good luck in
the joys of restoration! Picture the final results!
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Fischer" <email@example.com>
To: "'MG T list'" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2005 4:03 AM
Subject: RE: Problem bolts-nuts
> I can verify that "PB Blaster" works where
> various penetrating oils (liquid wrench, et al)
> do not in helping one remove rusted bolts.
> WD-40 is not really going to help with rusted
> bolts and nuts, as it is not a penetrating oil
> at all - it is indended to remove moisture and
> lubricate parts that are not (yet) rusted.
> But 50+ year-old parts often require the application
> of an angle grinder from the rental yard.
> > We are encountering dificulty removing some of the
> > bolts fastening the body together. My son got a "nut
> > cracker" but this isn't doing the job. At this time I
> > am considering a grinding wheel driven by a drill
> > moter but wonder what the list members recommend.
> > Yes we have tried a catering size can of wd40. Any
> > sugestions will be given full consideration.
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