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Bob
The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst case
I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo cable.
The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very frayed and
burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not tightly bolted
to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at this connection that
heated up the strap until it became open circuit. Once it became open
circuit there still had to be a way to earth and this just happened to be
up the speedo cable but could have been anywhere where there was an
electrical connection from the engine to the chassis.
On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had
> the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the
> starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and
> flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said
> the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the
> flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on
> the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split
> washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if
> grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is
> grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW,
> scrape the paint off).
>
>
> On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote:
>
> I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting
> issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor
> connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance. Just a
> thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and
> grounds.
> John O'Brien
> '61 bugeye (Lucy)
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
>
>
> Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys@autox.teaady checked m.net>
> <healeys@autox.teaadycheckedm.net>
> Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: Bob Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com> <rfbegani@gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter
>
> Bob--
>
> As said you can install the starter from under the car. Though the
> adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications
> usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will
> probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct set-up.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because
>> of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the
>> starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you
>> have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and
>> others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional
>> bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment
>> without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the
>> tunnel to get to the starter bolts.
>>
>> Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil
>> pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at
>> idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam
>> etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable
>> replacement?
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob<div><br></div><div>The earthing of the starter to the =
engine is as you say but the worst case I have heard of was bad starting an=
d final a burnt out the speedo cable. The strap from the engine plate to th=
e chassis had become very frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know bu=
t when checked it was not tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have be=
en localised heat at this connection that heated up the strap until it beca=
me open circuit. Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to=
earth and this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been=
anywhere where there was an electrical=C2=A0connection from the engine to =
the chassis.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" cla=
ss=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"=
mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries
and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially
installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grad=
e
8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter
to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I
re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked!
Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine
paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the
paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardwar=
e
is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded
through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW,
scrape the paint off).<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"auto">I expect you've already checked other possible
reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few
years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery
terminal resulting in high resistance.=C2=A0 Just a thought before
you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds.</di=
v>
<div dir=3D"auto">John O'Brien</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">'61 bugeye (Lucy)</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div id=3D"gmail-m_-6355114445525957383composer_signature" dir=3D"aut=
o">
<div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:rgb(87,87,87)" dir=3D"auto">Sent =
from my
Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e.</div>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto" style=3D"font-size:100%;color:rgb(0,0,0)" align=3D"=
left">
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@auto=
x.teaadycheckedm.net" target=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.teaady
checked m.net></a> </div>
<div>Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) </div>
<div>To: Bob Begani <a href=3D"mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"; target=3D=
"_blank"><rfbegani@gmail.com></a> </div>
<div>Cc: Ahealey help <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; tar=
get=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> </div>
<div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear
reduction starter </div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Bob--</=
div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">As said
you can install the starter from under the car.=C2=A0 Though the
adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all
applications usually there is only one position that will fit
on each car so you will probably=C2=A0have to play with things a
bit before you find the correct=C2=A0 set-up.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default">Best--M=
ichael=C2=A0Oritt</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)" class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
</div>
<br dir=3D"auto">
<div class=3D"gmail_quote" dir=3D"auto">
<div class=3D"gmail_attr" dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56
PM Bob Begani <<a href=3D"mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"; target=3D=
"_blank">rfbegani@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid=
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not
start after a run because of overheating.=C2=A0 the engine did
turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it
only moan.=C2=A0 So I will replace the starter.=C2=A0 Many of=
=C2=A0you have
recommended=C2=A0a=C2=A0gear reduction starter which is availab=
le from
Moss and others.=C2=A0 What source do you recomend.?=C2=A0 Also=
, I see
it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.=C2=A0 Wil=
l
it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to
remove the engine?=C2=A0 As it is I will have to take out the
tunnel to get to the starter bolts.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the
engine was the oil pump.=C2=A0 When the engine is hot the oil
pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle.=C2=A0 This engine
was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam
etc.=C2=A0 what=C2=A0 oil pump should i install and is the Mo=
ss pump
a reasonable replacement?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Regards,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</div>
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