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Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter

To: john harper <ah100tech@gmail.com>, Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 08:19:12 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> <CAL28cLV6z_YbvgsnYWb7z1cZqpTEFpmRDijv5C8tz66SUzpkdw@mail.gmail.com>
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Almost sounds like all Lucas electricals need a GFI!

On 12/12/2020 7:50 AM, john harper wrote:
> Bob
>
> The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst 
> case I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo 
> cable. The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very 
> frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not 
> tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at 
> this connection that heated up the strap until it became open circuit. 
> Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to earth and 
> this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been 
> anywhere where there was an electrical connection from the engine to 
> the chassis.
>
> On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net 
>
>     My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries
>     and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially
>     installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and
>     grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the
>     starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine.
>     When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter
>     worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the
>     engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut
>     through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if
>     grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the
>     starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good
>     connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off).
>
>
>     On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote:
>>     I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard
>>     starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned
>>     out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in
>>     high resistance.  Just a thought before you start replacing
>>     things is to check connections and grounds.
>>     John O'Brien
>>     '61 bugeye (Lucy)
>>     '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>
>>
>>


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    Almost sounds like all Lucas electricals need a GFI!<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/12/2020 7:50 AM, john harper
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAL28cLV6z_YbvgsnYWb7z1cZqpTEFpmRDijv5C8tz66SUzpkdw@mail.gmail.com">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Bob
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but
          the worst case I have heard of was bad starting and final a
          burnt out the speedo cable. The strap from the engine plate to
          the chassis had become very frayed and burnt looking. How I
          don't know but when checked it was not tightly bolted to the
          chassis. There must have been localised heat at this
          connection that heated up the strap until it became open
          circuit. Once it became open circuit there still had to be a
          way to earth and this just happened to be up the speedo cable
          but could have been anywhere where there was an
          electrical connection from the engine to the chassis.</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class="gmail_quote">
        <div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27,
          Bob Spidell &lt;<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
            moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
          0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div> My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new
            batteries and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it.
            When I'd initially installed the starter I'd used grade 8
            bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and flat
            washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop,
            who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed
            it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked!
            Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the
            engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers
            cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't
            know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5,
            but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate
            you need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint
            off).<br>
            <br>
            <br>
            <div>On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote:<br>
            </div>
            <blockquote type="cite">
              <div dir="auto">I expect you've already checked other
                possible reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a
                problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor
                connection at a battery terminal resulting in high
                resistance.  Just a thought before you start replacing
                things is to check connections and grounds.</div>
              <div dir="auto">John O'Brien</div>
              <div dir="auto">'61 bugeye (Lucy)</div>
              <div dir="auto">'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)</div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <div dir="auto"><br>
              </div>
              <br>
            </blockquote>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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