I just rebuilt 3 of these in the past month. If what you ae referring to in
your photos's is the Cast Iron Brake Plate. It is tapered and your working
against the brake or clutch drum which has a taper that matches the brake
plate.
I find it easiest to separate the Overdrive from the transmission first and
take things in order from where it attaches to the transmission on to the
driveshaft flange (last)
Remember the cast iron brake plate probably has Permatex # 3 or super 300
to help it seal (no gasket like the J type) and it takes some tapping with
a large punch to get it free.
Have fun mating the transmission back to the Overdrive. Make sure you don't
force it and line up the 2 splines in the O/D
Glenn
TR250, TR6, MG TC BMW 2002 Thinning the herd
On Sun, Dec 24, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Randall via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:
> Your photo shows the brake ring still stuck in the rear housing. It has to
> be tapped loose, using the protruding ears, before the housing can come
> off.
>
> -- Randall
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Blake
> via
> > Fot
> > Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2017 7:21 AM
> > To: Jerry Van Vlack; Fot
> > Subject: Re: [Fot] TR type A OD
> >
> > Nope. Trying to follow along per the buckeye article. He recommended
> > removing the rear housing while the OD is still attached. My next try
> will
> > be to remove the whole unit unless I have an aha moment and figure out
> > what's going on.
> >
> > Pics of my situation.
>
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>
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