As I'm reading these posts a couple things come to mind.
I have used the 'magic' components with good result............ I do
always make sure that the pins are in place to prevent rotation of the
throwout sleeve. I find it is necessary to add or replace these pins on
more than half the boxes I do, so unless you are aware of the potential
for noise as the bearing sleeve spins, you may have missed this little
pitfall.
Question to the 'squealers,,,,,,,,,,,,did you have pins in your throwout
bearing sleeves?
I can see where that might cause the noise problem being discussed.
IMHO I don't see the Toyota bearing itself as the cause.
Good luck to all, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <bthomlin@smith-cameron.ca>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 12:45 PM
Subject: magic clutch
> I too have had the squealing from the Toyota release bearing . Thank
goodness
> , the tranny cover & interior was left out as the whole engine had
been rebuilt
> & a short tour around the neighbourhood without all the fixings is
always a
> wise idea .
> If you inspect the Toyota bearing closely & compare it's contact
to the
> fingers of the pressure plate ,you will see that even though it's
bigger ,the
> bulk of it's contact area is alot bigger in diameter against those
fingers .
> That HAS to take alot more effort for the clutch hydraulics to
initiate . The
> whole bearing & sleeve is longer than the stock unit , but slave
hydraulics
> will account for that. Also ... the assembly ( from BPNW ) DID NOT
have an anti
> rotation pin on the sliding sleeve that moves each time the clutch is
used.
> In my instance , I just went out & bought a "Standard" realease
bearing &
> installed that on the old sleeve . I DID relocate the anti rotation
pin at 90
> Degrees to it's orginal spot ( new wear point ) .
> The other important thing worth consdering is ... change ALL
hardware when
> you're in this deep ... clutch cross shaft bushings,
> consider grease fittings each side, inspect & change the pivot pins
in the
> clutch fork ( if worn ) , install a NEW taper lock pin in the clutch
fork &
> lockwire it !!!
> No one will argue that the re & re experience on clutch/gearbox is a
bullwork
> job ... so give your self the best opportunity for success the first
time !!
> Mine now works fine !
> I do plan to install an adjustable slave actuator & return spring ,so
the
> release bearing IS NOT spinning consantly at engine speed. Two of
our club
> members did this conversion a few years back & have not had to do any
clutch
> adjustments since .
>
> Good luck .
>
> Brian Thomlinson TR250
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