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Re: Fuel Pump Rebuild

To: hfader@usa.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Rebuild
From: Popnglo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 7 May 2003 20:05:09 EDT
These two following gents have provided invaluable advice to the list (as
most of us know) I've saved their advice related to the fuel pump and it was
what I needed. Can't add any more, other than it was rather straight forward
and easy.
=======================================================
The pump is pretty easy.  Start with a quality screwdriver that fits the
slots in the screws snugly, as they may be pretty tight and you don't want
the screw driver to slip out and bugger the slot or pump (or your fingers).
Collect the screws and lockwashers, then lift away the top.  Press down on
the metal plate in the center of the diaphragm, and turn it (and the
diaphragm) 1/4 turn to disengage the pull rod.  Note which way round the
spring goes.  There should be a new spring in your kit, but you can probably
reuse the old one if not.

Unscrew the bail holding the sediment bowl on (if you haven't already),
swing the bail out of the way and carefully remove the sediment bowl.
Probably best to do this over a soft surface (like a towel), since the bowl
has a disturbing habit of first refusing to budge, then jumping off into
space when you least expect it.  Remove the gasket and screen.

Look inside the top cover to see how the valves are held in place.  Usually,
there is a screw or two and some plates that clamp them in.  If so, remove
the screw(s) and shake out the valves.  However, some pumps have the valves
staked into place.  If yours is one of these, then I would suggest leaving
the valves alone unless you know for a fact they are bad.  They last a very
long time, and there's a limit to how many times the pump body can be
re-staked.

Reassembly is, as they say, the reverse <g>

Randall
=========================================================
on the fuel pump, remember exactly how the 2 filters are facing, 1 is up
& 1 is down, you will see this as soon as you open the pump up, some are
peened in place, some have a bracket & screw, when removing the cam arm, do
not lose the return spring or washer spacers, be sure you reinstall the
holding pin all the way in on reassembly. The original had a rubber gasket
in place that is supposed to keep oil out, this is not needed and not in the
rebuild kit, it was usless anyway. The main diaphram must be locked into
place for a good pumping seal, it is a very easy job.  "FT"
=========================================================
BestRegards,

Ed (58 TR3A)

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