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Re: TR3A Split Steering Column

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR3A Split Steering Column
From: Nicholas Froome <listreader@pvision.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2002 17:11:29 +0000
Cc: J_Veillon@computron.net teamfat2.dsl.aros.net id g9THIpgO006770
References: <20021029160839.92130.qmail@web21405.mail.yahoo.com>
Richard


>
>     I have a 1960 TR-3A with a split steering column.
> I have been
>working on the steering for several months.  The upper
>column had a lot
>of slop in it.  The column would move inside the the
>tube that bolts
>onto onto the dashboard.  I took the steering wheel
>off and took out the
>upper column.  There was no bushing for the upper
>column to ride on.




Revington TR do a very cost-effective replacement nylon and rubber bush that 
cures this problem. They're around #5 each and weigh nothing so airmail will be 
cheap

The best way to do this job is to remove the whole outer column and then fit 
the bushes. Do use 1/2" spanners when doing this, and not 13mm! This 
description is based on an early TR4

There are two holes opposite each other in at the top & bottom of the outer 
column. The bushes slide into the outer and a rubber key engages in the holes, 
anchoring the bush. Push one bush up from the bottom, one down from the top

If you find the bell at the top of the outer column is sloppy or bent, drill 
out the rivets holding it on, straighten it out, then rerivet it in place. Be 
careful as the column outer is very soft ally

The column then slides home into the bushes and you can reattach the sliding 
joint under the bonnet (hood)

Be aware that the bolts holding the sliding joint may well have stretched over 
time and they should be replaced. The procedure as per the manual to fit this 
joint is to slacken the locking nut & the allen centre bolt, fit the joint & 
tighten the two bolts, then tighten the allen bolt till the allen key bends, 
then lock it in place. Overtightening the two bolts will just stretch them and 
doesn't make the joint any tighter.

Also the steering UJs will probably be shot - I _strongly_ recommend replacing 
them with the solid steering joints also available from Revington

You should also check that the main shaft is straight and - very important - 
that the splined areas are not worn. You need to wire brush them to bare metal 
then examine them very carefully to see if the shaft is reuseable. S/h shafts 
are available for around #15

Finally you will find that the outer column will tend to wander around where it 
exits the dash. The clamp under the dash edge does not hold the outer tightly - 
it has a felt washer so it holds it snug and it may be a little loose for your 
tastes. Remove the speedo & tacho and check the diagonal bracing bar is bolted 
in tightly and, if you still don't like, proceed as below

This is the big one: remove the whole dash and make up a new diagonal brace to 
match the one that's already there. Bolt in place. Then put a jubilee clip 
(hose clip) round the steering column outer and the lower dash brace (the one 
that runs fore-aft) and tighten so it just pulls the column slightly. The outer 
(and inner, with the new bushes) should now be pretty solid

Just avoid using the wheel as a lever to get in and out of the car...


Revington TR
http://www.revingtontr.com



Nick Froome
http://www.bolide.co.uk

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