Unless you build the ramps the length of the car with one end to drive up
on. I would make a bridge in the middle that is removable after the car
goes up, so you dont have to just access from the front/back. A main
support under each wheel, with a bridge between and a removable ramp at one
end. The whole assembly could be an erector type set for breakdown/storage.
Four piers, two bridges and two ramps. Would take some welding/fab, but
nothing too far beyond. The bridges could be changed for different
cars/wheelbase lengths, and hey, we just invented the poor mans garage lift
kit!!
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist@gte.net]
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2001 4:57 PM
To: ZinkZ10C@aol.com
Cc: murray54@bellsouth.net; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Car Ramps
I can't see how anyone could drive any Triumph up onto 4 ramps. You would
have to position the ramps in front of each of the 4 tires and there is
just not enough ground clearance to position one in front of the rear tires.
(Unless it is a very short ramp).
Plus, if your car is very low in the front (as mine is) the front valence
will strike the ramp before the tires. Such is the problem with trailering
most race cars.
Joe
ZinkZ10C@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 7/30/01 3:44:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> murray54@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> << "do not use to put both ends of vehicle up
> at the same time". Anybody have experience with this? What have you
used?
> >>
>
> It can be difficult enough to get a car onto one pair of ramps let alone
> syncronizing two pairs. Ramps sometimes skid when driving up the ramp.
If
> only one set skids a one end up and other end 1/2 way will result.
>
> When driving up 4 ramps, the effective incline has doubled making it even
> more difficult.
>
> For most work, jackstands are still the way to go. Buy a good set from a
> company that automotive repair garages buy from: Blackhawk, Lincoln,
Walker
> and others. Do not under any circumstances but a cut tube jackstand.
These
> are made from a 3" piece of exhaust pipe cut three ways then the metal
bent
> outwards to form three legs. The saddle adjusts by moving a pin.
>
> Better stands have a ratchet for adjustment and a handle to release ( and
to
> carry the stand.
>
> Harold
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