See, Red? I TOLD you Dan wouldn't be able to resist this one! 8^)
DANMAS@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/13/99 8:52:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rhansen@att.com
> writes:
>
> > I discovered a problem
> > with my lights. Here are the lights that DO NOT WORK:
> > Instrument lights
> > All 4 side lights
> > Back-up lights
> > Rear lights (stop lights work)
>
> <snip>
>
> > But, I thought that there might be two things out there in TR Land: an
> exact
> > idea of which fuse controls which lamp and also some ideas as to how to
> best
> > troubleshoot this problem. After all, April 23rd is fast approaching and I
> > still have some other things to chase down before I go before the ever
> > powerful Gods of the DMV.
>
> Red,
>
> The instrument lights, the 4 side lights, and the rear lights are all fed
> from the same fuse - the one with a Red/Green wire on one side and two or
> more Red wires on the other. This fuse is powered from the headlight switch
> via the Red/Green wire, and all the devices fed from it are fed by the Red
> wires. Your license plate lamps and the front marker lamps are also fed from
> this fuse. If any of these lights are working, then your problem is not in
> the fuse. Somewhere, probably under the dash, one of the Red wires has come
> loose. Of course, it's entirely possible that you have more than one problem
> with the wiring. Check all of the Red wires and their connectors.
>
> If neither your license plate lamps nor your front marker lamps are working,
> but the headlights are, then check your headlight switch to see if you have
> power on the Red/Green wire on the switch with the headlight switch on. If
> not, you have a bad switch. If you do, then there is a break in the Red/Green
> wire between the switch and the fuse.
>
> Once you have found the problem, it's still quite likely that the instrument
> lights will still not work, because of the dimmer in the circuit - this is
> notorious for failure. I would recommend connecting the Red wire and the
> Red/White wire on the dimmer together and just eliminate the dimmer
> altogether.
>
> The back-up lights are fed from the fuse with the White wires on one side and
> Green wires on the other. This fuse also feeds the WW wipers, heater fan,
> turn signals, gauges, and the brake lights. Since most of these items are
> working, the problem is not in the fuse. One of the Green wires from this
> fuse runs to the switch on your transmission, which is closed when in
> reverse. From the other side of the switch there is a Green/Brown wire which
> goes to the lamps. Check to see if these wires are correctly in place. If so,
> look for power on the Green wire (with the key on), and then with the
> transmission in reverse, check that you have power on the Green/Brown wire at
> the switch. Note: you may have two other switches on the transmission as well
> - one for the neutral safety switch and one for an OD circuit -- make sure
> you are looking at the right one.
>
> If you don't have power on the green wire, there is a break in that circuit
> which needs to be found and fixed. If you have power on the Green wire, but
> not on the Green/Brown, either the switch is bad or misadjusted. If you have
> power on the Green/Brown wire, then there is a break somewhere in the that
> wire on its way to the lamps.
>
> I think that just about covers everything, and I don't believe I have any
> errors in it. If I can be of more help, let me know.
>
> Dan Masters,
> Alcoa, TN
>
> '71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
> '71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
> http://members.aol.com/danmas/
> '74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
> '68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
--
Michael Ferguson
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