Sorry to disagree, but I personally welded on separate inner and outer
sills. Where'd you get the idea that they were a unit?
Bryce Mack wrote:
>
> Nice try Steve, but there is no inner and outer sill. they are one unit
> replaced as a unit. They are made of two pieces of metal pre spot welded
> together, aligned and with one open end one closed end and the frame
> mounting tabs preinstalled.
>
> I can take a digital picture and e-mail it to you ir you wish.
>
> Bryce
> '57 TR-3 Smallmouth
> 2-pieces about to be joined.....
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Steve Bonner [mailto:steveb@aspec.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 9:49 AM
> > To: Bryce Mack
> > Subject: Re: More on Rust Repair
> >
> >
> > Bryce,
> >
> > Thanks for the details on what's involved with the rust repair. I had no
> > idea it was that involved. Another question. Would it be possible that
> > only the outer sills are rusted through, and the inner sills are OK? I
> > jacked up the car and used a screwdriver to poke at the inner sills from
> > underneath the car and was not able to break through. Am I dreaming here
> > or could the inner sills be intact and would this help out signifcantly in
> > keeping the body and door alignment in place and reduce the cost of the
> > rust repair?
> >
> > My plan was to do the rest of the bodywork myself since the body is
> > straight. I have a friend who owns a paint shop and is willing to do a
> > deal on the painting. I was hoping that this would offset the cost of
> > paying someone to do the rust repair.
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> > At 08:28 PM 8/24/98 -0700, you wrote:
> > >Indeed Steve you were very lucky with your prev. vehicle. The
> > problem with
> > >the 3 is that once the floors/rockers,sills are removed the car is in 2
> > >pieces. New body mounts must be installed in order to align up the body,
> > >doors,get the gaps right. If your lucky enough to find someone
> > who will do
> > >QUALITY bodywork for say $50/hr it will take him over a month to get it
> > >right. Thats over 160 hrs at 50/hr. So much for $8000 and your
> > parts on top.
> > >And now you have to prime and paint it ($2-$3000).
> > >
> > >Boy do I wish there were a simpler way! I'll have a drivetrain rebuilt
> > >anyday to rebuilding a rusty tub!
> > >
> > >Bryce
> > >
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: Steve Bonner [mailto:steveb@aspec.com]
> > >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 1998 5:40 PM
> > >> To: Bryce Mack
> > >> Subject: RE: Rust Repair
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Bryce,
> > >>
> > >> Thanks for your response. I had no idea it would be soooo
> > expensive. I
> > >> have been spoiled living in California. The one restoration I
> > >> did was on a
> > >> TR4 that had zero rust. The underneath the car was especially well
> > >> preserved with a thick coating of 30 years worth of grease.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> Regarding this new project, you are right about the quarters, they also
> > >> need to be repaired, but the front cowl is in good condition.
> > I had the
> > >> car on jacks and was able to take a look underneath and the
> > frame is also
> > >> in good condition. I think the rust problems are do to the DPO
> > >> letting the
> > >> car sit and collect water inside the car in the usual places.
> > >>
> > >> The body of the car is straight, and the rest of the body is in good
> > >> condition. Does this help any with the effort and cost of the
> > >> rust repair?
> > >> I really appreciate you offering to help. I don't know how
> > close you are
> > >> to San Jose, California.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Steve
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> At 05:13 PM 8/24/98 -0700, you wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> >Steve,
> > >> >
> > >> >Unless you are handy at doing it yourself, you will spend 10-12
> > >> thousand $
> > >> >to get this done. I am just in the process of doing this myself
> > >> on my TR-3
> > >> >Smallmouth.
> > >> >
> > >> >The new metal parts will set you back about $1000.00 and if all
> > >> that is as
> > >> >rusty as you say it is you will need modifications to the rear
> > >> 1/4's, lower
> > >> >ft cowl section and numberous other areas you will have to
> > have patched.
> > >> >
> > >> >I don't know where you live but if you are close by me I would
> > >> be happy to
> > >> >assist with advise and equiptment.
> > >> >
> > >> >Bryce Mack
> > >> >(20 years beatin panels)
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> >> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> > >> >> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Steve Bonner
> > >> >> Sent: Monday, August 24, 1998 3:46 PM
> > >> >> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > >> >> Subject: Rust Repair
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Hello,
> > >> >>
> > >> >> I am trying to determine the cost of doing rust repair for a
> > >> >> TR2-TR3. I am
> > >> >> able to get the price of materials from Moss, but I am still
> > >> trying to get
> > >> >> a price estimate for the labor. The items that require
> > rust repair are
> > >> >> both floorboards, battery box, both outer sills, and lower
> > >> front fenders.
> > >> >> Any estimates are greatly appreciated. I am trying to
> > >> determine the cost
> > >> >> since I do not have the equipment or experience to do it myself.
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Thanks,
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Steve Bonner
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
--
George Richardson
'57 TR3, TS15559L - painting and reassembling....
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
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