George Richardson wrote:
>
> Roof tar? Ugh! Go to some adequate auto supply house and get automotive
> seam sealer. When you pop rivet your galvanized piece of steel into
> place, use the seam sealer around the edges both inside and underneath
> the car, then paint it with some rustproof pain, overlapping the old
> floor panel.
>
> I've used this technique even when I've welded panels. Paint alone won't
> always prevent moisture from getting into a weld, so I seal it first.
> You can get various types, caulk gun tubes, brushable, squeeze tubes.
>
> Forget the roof tar, the stuff will stay sticky forever and will just
> make a mess.
>
> Sumner Weisman wrote:
> >
> > Since I am "welding impaired" I have bought a new pop rivet gun and some
> > steel rivets, and am ready to replace the weak driver's side floor in my
> > TR-3. Per the List's advice, I will seal it with roof tar first.
> >
> > I plan on having a sheet metal shop cut me a piece of galvanized iron. If
> > anybody's interested, the dimensions are 15 X 21 inches. Does anyone have
> > a feel for how thick it ought to be? I'm thinking somewhere between 12 and
> > 16 gauge.
> >
> > Sumner Weisman
> > 62 TR-3B
>
> --
> George Richardson
> '57 TR3, TS15559L - finally painting!
> http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
Sumner,
Contact Resto-motive Labortories at www.por15.com They have this stuff
called POR-PATCH which is a thick verison of their POR15 rust
preventative paint. This stuff works great. Have them send you a
catalog.
--
Patrick Barber
74 Spitfire 1500 (FM14774U)
"Go Red Wings" ... 1998 Stanley Cup Champions!!!
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