Roof tar? Ugh! Go to some adequate auto supply house and get automotive
seam sealer. When you pop rivet your galvanized piece of steel into
place, use the seam sealer around the edges both inside and underneath
the car, then paint it with some rustproof pain, overlapping the old
floor panel.
I've used this technique even when I've welded panels. Paint alone won't
always prevent moisture from getting into a weld, so I seal it first.
You can get various types, caulk gun tubes, brushable, squeeze tubes.
Forget the roof tar, the stuff will stay sticky forever and will just
make a mess.
Sumner Weisman wrote:
>
> Since I am "welding impaired" I have bought a new pop rivet gun and some
> steel rivets, and am ready to replace the weak driver's side floor in my
> TR-3. Per the List's advice, I will seal it with roof tar first.
>
> I plan on having a sheet metal shop cut me a piece of galvanized iron. If
> anybody's interested, the dimensions are 15 X 21 inches. Does anyone have
> a feel for how thick it ought to be? I'm thinking somewhere between 12 and
> 16 gauge.
>
> Sumner Weisman
> 62 TR-3B
--
George Richardson
'57 TR3, TS15559L - finally painting!
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
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