>Martin, I don't have `75-6 schematics handy, and haven't seen the valve
>on the later cars. In most applications on other makes, the
>anti-dieseling valve shuts off fuel to the idle circuit, which is
>intended to stop the engine. So, if Triumph is similar, the valve should
>be open with ignition and start power, and closed with the key in the
>off position. You might check to see if the valve is working properly by
>turning the power on and off and touching the valve--you should be able
>to feel the plunger moving when power is applied and removed. I could
>tell this will all the Toyotas equipped with them when I worked on
>those.
>
>>From the list you presented, most of your problem stems, I think, from
>two things: plugs are a bit too hot a range, and the idle speed is
>definitely too high. If you get it down to the prescribed idle, that
>will take care of most of your problem. I wouldn't be pulling the head
>off until you've tried at least those things first.
>
According to Tech Service Bulletin 72-A-5, in "Triumph Tech Talk" by Norman
Nock, the valve is open when engine is running and when engine comes to
rest, however, when you just switched off engine the valve is closed. The
plunger does work.
But as I said, my ignition switch does not have a sixth position for the
anti-runon valve. The 73 wiring diagrams do not show the anti-runon valve,
but is shown on the 75-76 diagrams with the same color wiring as I have in
my car.
Tried the idle down to 850 and timing to 4 degrees ATDC and a very lean
mixture, Champion N6YC plugs (colder then the N9YC plugs), and it still
diesels (but as as severe as before) and the car gets hot. Next step
replace the ignition with a 6 position switch.
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