Jeff,
It's a very valid idea... I don't have a hinge sitting here on my lap... but
going
on memory... I'd say...
Take out the fixed pin as mentioned... and replace it with a shoulder bolt...
get
one that has room for a thick metal washer, a thin delrin or nylon washer (on
either
side of the hinge) with very little "play"... then simply lock it off with a
nyloc
or a castle nut secured by a cotter pin. (get a shoulder that is a close to the
size
you need, without going too short, and then take up the play with shim washers,
etc.) If you can also fit a thin nylon washer between the two hinge pieces,
all the
better. It's not going to make a difference in the big picture...
If you had a machine shop ream the holes to the holes to the next-up size
shoulder
bolt... this would help to take out any play along the axis... (if
required)...
and would thus refresh the hinge.
I had tinkered with the idea... but since the issue usually came up when I was
putting the bonnet back on after a major engine project... my mind was usually
on
driving it/working out the bugs/etc. rather than getting back to the hinge.
For those of you concerned about safety... the above modification with a high
grade
shoulder bolt would be stronger than the stock configuration. Hood pins should
be
installed at the driver's end if you really want to project yourself!
--Justin
jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> I have had the bonnet (hood) off of my TR6 for the past couple of weeks while
>I
> wait for a replacement hinge to arrive in the mail. If you have never had the
> bonnet off, you don't know what you're missing. For one thing, there's more
> light under there to see things. But the biggest advantage is, the prop rod,
> hood, etc. aren't in the way of working under there. It makes life so easy.
>
> When I reinstall the bonnet, I'd like to rework the hinges into a quick
> disconnect hinge so that the hood can easily be removed and reinstalled
>without
> having to realign, undo all the bolts, etc.
>
> I've got what I think is a great and simple idea. I thought you could remove
>the
> existing permanent "pin" that acts as a pivot point and replace it with a pin
> that is held in place with cotter pins, for example. The hinge would then be 2
> separate pieces; one would be bolts to the bonnet, and one piece would be
>bolted
> to the inside of the fender, just the way it is now. All you would have to do
>to
> remove the bonnet is to raise it and pull the cotter pins. Of course, to
> reinstall, just "reverse the procedure". It wouldn't change the outside
> appearance either.
>
> OK, take my theory apart; or give me a better idea.
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff
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