>
> The adapter comes with 3 rubber O-rings: 1 is the large one to replace
> the ring that sealed the old canister; and 2 smaller ones to take the
> place of the seal on the old filter element. One of the smaller rings is
I put the same kit on about 1.5 years ago. I remember I didn't know how
to keep the rings in place w/o them falling out, so I had the same
experience of starting the car and having the oil fairly gush out. I
finally thought of holding them in with some grease I think. After
playing games with getting the old canister out and getting clearance
around the clutch slave and the fuel line, I was short of patience for
playing with the plasticene. I believe I put in the thicker ring and bob
was your uncle. I really don't have any oil leaks to speak of (shock,
horror...) Except the diff.
> The filter from Moss (Fram PH3600) is long enough that the clutch
> slave cylinder is in the way and you can't get the filter on. My solution
> was to loosen the adapter and rotate it a bit clockwise. This angles
> it enough so the filter clears the slave cylinder.
Same here.
> a junction bolted to the inner fender that looks like an H with brake
> lines coming off all 4 ends. I removed the bolt which allowed enough
> play in the brake lines to squeeze the cannister out, then replaced the bolt.
I removed the clutch slave and it came out the bottom. I remember
thinking it was either that or take out the steering column intermediate
shaft.
> Does replacing the cannister with the adapter and spin on
> filter change the amount of oil that should be in the engine? Should I
> still add oil according to the marks on the dip stick?
The level in the sump should be the same I'm sure.
> God knows when the oil was last changed. I plan to run for a few days
> and then change the oil and the filter. I will then stick to a 3000 miles or
> 3 months oil and filter change schedule. Good plan?
If it was me I'd want to get more than a few days running out of an oil
and filter change. Just have a look at how clean the oil is. I'm CHEAP
though....
I run Castrol GTX 20W/50, BTW.
> Should I use some kind of cleaning or flushing agent with any oil
> changes?
> With the engine warm and idling, the dash oil pressure gauge shows
> about 60 psi. Is that a good number? Is the gauge telling the truth?
>
Sounds surprisingly high to me - 25-40 would be more normal at 800rpm
warm I would think.
Peter Barrance
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