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Re: Undercoating One More Time

To: "spitfires@autox.team.net" <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Undercoating One More Time
From: Flinthoof Ponypal <Flinters@picarefy.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2001 11:32:12 -0700
At 01:58 PM 6/12/01 -0400, Douglas Frank wrote:

>> If you use an aircraft stripping agent, it will melt away
>
>Tell us more, please!


Well, it's pretty easy.  I used an aircraft stripping agent available at a
local auto body / paint supply.  Nothing at the hardware store is strong
enough to do the job.  A gallon of it cost $25, but it goes a long way and
is enough to do a whole car if you are careful.  It's a useful enough
product that I will always have some around for various projects.

Using rubber gloves (not latex disposables, but true heavy rubber gloves)
and a throwaway paint brush, you pour some of the stripper out into a metal
can and then brush that onto the surface one way only.  When you apply it,
it immediately seals itself to help prevent too much evaporation.  If you
brush different directions, then you keep removing this built in protection
and reduce the effectiveness.  Just apply the material in a moderately
heavy coat and let it sit.  It does all the work for you.  If you have some
cheap plastic sheeting, it helps to put that over the surface to aid in
preventing evaporation.  

When the surface is visably blistered, you're ready to go.  This will take
between 20-40 minutes usually depending on humidity and temperatures.  If
you let it sit too long, it will dry out and while the paint/undercoating
will be easier to remove, it won't be as simple.  Coat it again and let it
sit another 20 minutes.  If the material didn't dry out and the blistered
paint has the consistency of soft pliable shavings, then you're ready.  A
scraper works great for this- I used a steel scraper with adjustable blade.
 This pulled off sheets of the discarded material and left a very nice
surface behind.  Steel wool will take care of the smaller curved areas the
scraper can't get to.  A little more stripper  helps for some of the
stubborn areas along with the steel wool.  

When you're done, wash the area with water to deactivate the agent and dry
it off.  Hit the area with a rust prohibitive paint or simular to protect
this new surface.  

I've done this now to two doors, a bonnet, front valance, and rear bootlid
with great results.  Now I'm in the process of building a body tub
rotisserie to do the rest of the tub.

-Vegaman Dan
 ________________________________________________________________________
 |             |   1968 Triumph Spitfire Mk III   *   Furry Artist      |
 |  Flinthoof  |--------------------------------------------------------|
 |             |   MINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINTMINT!!   |
 |     Dan     |--------------------------------------------------------| 
 |    Canaan   |     ConiFur NorthWest 2001 - Furries in Seattle!       |
 |             |--------------------------------------------------------|
 | CONIFUR NW  |   Flinters@picarefy.com * http://jarmac.picarefy.com   |
 |_____________|________________________________________________________|

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