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Re: [Shop-talk] Enclosed car trailer (random thoughts)

To: "David Hillman" <hillman@planet-torque.com>, <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Enclosed car trailer (random thoughts)
From: "Steve Hammatt, Mount Vernon WA USA" <gsteve@hammatt.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2015 11:25:13 -0700
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <14fb1efc30a-24df-27a47@webprd-a46.mail.aol.com> <55F0481F.2090004@dinospider.com> <alpine.BSF.2.02.1509091209120.15811@itonami.pair.com>
OK, I canbt help myself, Ibve got to mention the how and why of my
trailer.  Since I have a variety of interests (including tall horseless
carriages) I ordered a full sized (8-1/2b wide and an extra foot taller
enclosed 24b trailer.  I use it for local tours in our horseless carriage
clubbs
activities as well as a once a year long haul from the Pac NW to Hershey
Fall Meet.  Itbs a 3,000 mile haul over two mountain ranges each way.

Herebs what Ibve learned:
I ordered 10 pair of D-rings bolted through the floor.  In my case, maybe I
could have gone with e-track in the floor.  However I did add two rows of
e-track on each inside long wall of the 24b trailer.  Absolutely great for
strapping stuff upright to the side walls.
I also purchased a 100b roll of hi-strength 2b webbing.  Made up custom
tie-downs with an adjustable loop (instead of a basket) to facilitate all the
various size tire/wheels that I have (everything from 13b Corvair wheels to
36b horseless carriage wheels).  The best choice (for me) was to find hd
ratchets and I selected ALL STAINLESS STEEL construction.  Somehow my
old ratchets were always corrosion prone and became difficult to operate.  Now
Ibve got a ratchet that feels like a Snap-On tool!  I like to tie each
corner wheel
down tight.  This removes the strain on all the suspension and chassis.  I
donbt
like to tie a vehicle down by trying to pull the axels apart.  Also, if for
some
reason I lose a tie down, all the remaining wheels are still firmly anchored.
Another recent change was to fix the HEAVY tailgate.  My trailer manufacturer
tried to compensate for the heavier and taller ramp/door by simply
cranking down on the assist spring.  I eventually went to my local garage door
shop in town and they calculated the true loads and replaced the overhead
spring with a replacement that had fewer winds but larger wire diameter.
Now I can actually lift up and lay down the entire rear door/ramp with one
finger (itbs easier with two or three fingers).  Big change.
I also had the manufacturer fit one of those manual slide out steps seen
on RV rigs, this was for the man door.  They also included a hand grip to
assist in entering the rig.
Ibve also upgraded my Load Range D tires to Load Range E.  Ibm keeping the
shredded sidewall of the bexplodedb Load Range D tire as a future wall
decoration in the new garage addition.
Ibm planning on switching out the screws (on the interior white walls and
ceiling) to pop rivets.  The vibration of travel loosens the existing screws.
Ibve added a spare tire mount to the front exterior wall.  While I did order
the 120V cable system with some interior lights, I havenbt really needed
them.
Someday I may add a rear trailer camera and tie it into my backup camera on
my diesel rig.  I do not like the snap-tite plastic clearance lights covers.
Too
easy to come off while traveling.  Maybe I need to clean and reinsert the push
on
covers, but with a drop of clear RTV to keep them on.  Typically re-pack all
wheel
bearings every other year.  Had to replace two sets of wheel bearings after
not
repacking them for 4 years.
I recently switched to Andersenbs weight distribution hitch with anti-sway.
Go here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HRoQ_yQZQwQ
to see the video.  Ibm very pleased with it.

Steve Hammatt
Mount Vernon WA USA
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