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Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality

To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
From: w <wc5813@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2013 22:34:58 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: shop-talk@autox.team.net
References: <000c01cef5f6$c217e970$4647bc50$@Ameritech.net> <0JD81n01X0NyJgq01JDBjb> <00d801cef77b$204abc90$60e035b0$@cox.net>
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On 12/12/2013 3:45 PM, ElanS4 wrote:
>> When you hook the new one up, be sure to get the flexible lines with the
> insulators <...>
>
> One other modest suggestion.  Get two ball valves and install one on the
> intake and the other on the output.  It shure makes things easier in the
> future if you have to replace the hot water heater, or do maintenance, etc.

I installed one of the Whirlpool electrics with the "energy smart" 
control from Lowes back in 2006 after getting in a pissing match with my 
propane company, and figuring out electric was cheaper to operate. 
They're made by "American Water Heater" in TN, and I've read some bad 
stories about them, but mine's run fine, and my utility bills have 
dropped. Recovery time on it is very quick.

Other installation tips: I did mine with CPVC spliced into the copper. 
Easy stuff to work with and reasonably priced. I did some stuff plumbers 
would never take the time or expense to do; besides the ball valves on 
BOTH lines, install pipe unions. I had to temporarily move mine to 
install a new, much larger well pressure tank a couple years later, and 
my friend & I drained, disconnected, and slid the heater 3 feet to the 
side for access in under 15 minutes. The unions also let air in rapidly 
for easy routine flushes (and I can crack them open by hand.)

If yours is sitting on concrete, like a basement, the stuff is alkaline 
and often has water vapor coming up through it. You've probably seen 
tanks with the bottom of the housing corroded out. I laid down some of 
the plastic used for tile shower stalls under it as a vapor barrier.

The el-cheapo plastic drain valves like to clog up, leak, and are slow 
to drain. Before you fill the thing, buy a brass pipe nipple, ball 
valve, and hose bib fitting and replace the plastic junk for easy flushes.

This place has lots of good advice and products, but is expensive:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/Ball-Valve-Drain-Assembly.html
If you're not short of dough and just want the right stuff quick & easy, 
cost no object, go for it. But you can get it cheaper at any local 
plumbing place.

-Good Luck!  Wayne
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