> So how can I work around this problem?
As noted, check for any other problems first. If the sight glass shows the
system is still full of Freon, then it's unlikely that the gauges will show
you any other problem that doesn't require opening the system anyway. My
point being that the gauges are the last approach, not the first.
One thing that might not be obvious at first is whether the blowers are
turning full speed. A dry bearing can sometimes kill the fan rpm without
blowing a fuse or burning up the motor (immediately anyway).
As a side note, my Dad once found a major installation where the blowers
were turning backwards!
> The gauge set came with adapters
> that
> attach to modern car R-134A ports, and have knobs that open the internal
> valves after the adapters have been securely attached to the ports.
As noted, you still have to purge the hoses.
> Or do A/C techs simply attach and detach the hoses quickly and not worry
> about
> the freon that leaks out in the process?
That's the way we did it in the old days. Note that you should try to not
have any liquid present; if it's only vapor then you shouldn't lose too
much. Usually, turning off the compressor and waiting for the liquid to
settle is enough to get it away from the fittings.
> I do not want to have to pay somebody
> several hundred dollars per year to keep the refrigerator going,
If you are having to add Freon every year, then I would definitely suggest
finding and fixing the leak.
> and I really
> do not want to pay $6000+ for a new one.
Besides power consumption, another thing to consider is Freon availability.
While it's certainly not cheap now, the EPA's stated goal is to make it
totally unavailable in the US. That could still happen.
Randall
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