> -----Original Message-----
> From: Martin Scarr [mailto:martins@efn.org]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 5:59 PM
> To: Madurski, Ronald M
> Cc: Shop Talk
> Subject: Re: Pouring a floor
>
>
> On Wed, 30 Jul 2003, Madurski, Ronald M wrote:
>
> > The original plan was for a 16" wide footer, 10" thick, with a few
> > courses of 8" block and then the floor poured on that.
> >
> > What I am thinking about doing now is form the footer, the
> short wall,
> > and the floor all at one time and just do one pour. Are there any
> > problems with doing it this way? (Other than the fact that
> it is a LOT
> > of concrete to pour at one time.)
>
> That's a perfectly acceptable way to do it, but it can be
> tricky. You can
> run into a problem with holding up the wall forms, especially
> on a 16 inch
I was also a bit concerned about having to leave the forms under/next to
the concrete which overtime could create a void.
> wide footing. There are some steel straps made for that purpose, or
> sometimes contractors here use pieces of 1x lumber across the
> top of the
> footing forms to hold up the wall forms. You also need to be sure to
> sufficiently brace the wall forms so they don't move around during the
> pour; since the bottom of the wall forms rest on the footing forms you
> need a lot of bracing.
> > My second alternative is to do the footer putting in a
> keyway. Pour the
> > walls (8" thick) with another keyway, and then pour the floor.
> > Logistically this is a bit more difficult but the advantage
> that I see
> > is if a problem occurs less of the pour is affected.
>
> In my area you are required to have pieces of vertical bar
> for stem walls,
> so we don't use keyways. If you don't need vertical bar, you
> can use 12"
> pieces of rebar placed vertically in the wet footing in lieu
> of a keyway.
> Place them every 4 feet (or whatever your inspector wants) in
> the center
> of the stem wall.
I neglected to mention that I was planning on using vertical pieces of
rebar in my original post (as well as putting in the keyway). Probably
every 24".
>
> > Another thing I was contemplating is welding the rebar
> together instead
> > of just tying it together. Other than the time it would
> take to do it
> > are there any downsides to doing this?
>
> Don't do it, your inspector probably won't like it and code may even
> prohibit it (been awhile since I looked at a code book). Just lap the
> rebar and tie it with wire (lap needs to be 40x the diameter
> of the bar,
> 1/2 inch bar needs 20 inch lap).
>
That seems to be the concensus. Cheap steel doesn't weld well.
Thanks
Ron Madurski
> regards
> Martin Scarr
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