Stu,
It's entirely possible that your oil leak is fairly simply and easily
solved.
The original seal used an asbestos-impregnated rope. A length was placed in
the groove in the oil pan and another in the timing chain cover. This rope
seal is still available if you want to use it. Go to a well-stocked auto
parts store and ask for the rope seal used in Chevy 350 engines. I believed
it was used in the rear seal of those engines. If pressed, I could possibly
supply a NAPA part number.
The Moss seal is simply a standard neoprene seal much like those used around
wheel bearings. However, it is a certain dimension to snugly fit the opening
and the crankshaft.
To replace this seal, drop the oil pan, at least enough that the front of
the pan hangs free of the crank. You'll also have to remove the crank
pulley, but not the oil slinger. Then remove the timing chain cover.
Once this is all exposed, check the sealing surface of the crank where it
rides on the seal. This should be clean and smooth. You don't want the
surface to chew up the new seal. If this is not smooth, but worn with
roughness or grooves, better to use the rope seal. If it's really bad, some
work is necessary on the crank.
Once everything is clean, fill the grooves (where the old seal came out) in
the pan and chain cover with a good high temperature silicone sealant (RTV
works well). Then put a smear of grease around the inside of the new seal,
slip it onto the crank nose piece, and then seat it by replacing the pan and
chain cover. Tighten everything back down, replace the crank pulley and dog
nut, and let the silicone set up. You're done!
Yes, the seal is not as thick as the place it is inserted in. That's why you
have to get some silicone around the grooves. The silicone holds it in place
and ensures an oil tight fit.
This seal works if done carefully, the crank is clean and burr-free, and you
don't mind spending the dollars. If you have the old Moss seal, you can find
a replacement at most bearing shops for a fraction of the price.
I find that the old rope seal works just as well, as long as you don't trim
the ends flush with the opening, but leave about an eighth inch of the rope
standing proud of the pan and chain cover on each side. This provides a bit
of "crush" to ensure a better seal. The problem that most folks have with
the old rope seal is that it is - well, - OLD. Like gaskets, they can become
old and dried out and simply lose their shape and their ability to seal.
Good luck, and let me know if you need that NAPA part number.
Regards,
Lew Palmer
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mg-t@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-t@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Stuart Keen
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2000 3:38 PM
To: MG T Digest
Subject: Oil Leak
I'd appreciate some advice on fixing a front oil leak on a 1951 MGTD.
I've been going through a qt of oil every 1000 miles. Though this
concerned me, everyone said not to worry, that this was "normal" for a
TD (actually in print in an old Road & Track). A couple weeks ago I went
to the Everglades; my consumption was much worse, about 1 qt for every
400 miles. Since I don't see any noticeable smoke in the exhaust, I
figure I must be loosing it elsewhere.
>From paper under the engine, I have known in the past that I was loosing
a little oil from the front bearing. With the car just sitting in the
garage, just a little oil would be found the following morning.
But I definitely erred when I said "a little" from the front bearing.
This morning I idled the TD until the oil was warm. Then I saw actual
drops falling. With the oil just warm, not hot, it was dropping from two
places around the front seal area, both at 8 second intervals.
Now I AM worried. I'm afraid sometime in the near future it may just
gush out. The guy that rebuilt my engine a year ago said the seal I
supplied from Moss was about half the width of the grove that it slid
into. Now I must seal the front CORRECTLY.
My question is: How much trouble is it to get to the front seal? I
understand that it is under the timing chain cover, but what are the
items that much be removed to get at the seal? Is this something a
garage should do?
And once the seal is exposed, what is the best technique for making a
good front seal so I have no more leaks? What about putting in TWO Moss
seals? I think the grove may be wide enough. Or is there a better
solution?
Is there some compound that can be used to seal around the existing
front seal? The machine shop had used silicone, but I don't think this
is the answer. Silicone dissolves in gasoline, so in heated oil it might
deteriorate also.
Stu Keen
Venice, Fl
1951 MGTD MkII
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