Don,
I also was a rookie when I started this project, glad to share what I did
though.
I was not quite specific enough, I did use steel rivets in the wheel wells,
and aluminum rivets on the firewall to hold the edge pieces on, both for
originality. Inserts and "T" nuts are holding the frame together and dash to
frame etc. mostly out of sight. I riveted most of the new plywood to the wheel
well pieces before they were attached to the body, used machine screws
temporarily to the frame, when satisfied with alignment etc my wife held the
sledge hammer to back up the rivets for the permanent attachment. In this area
I did use t-nuts in the back "seat" mounting rails and rear bulkhead around
the prop-shaft tunnel.
I think Bob Z. has a good point about silicone not being paintable. I chose 3M
5200 FC because it is waterproof and stays flexible, it is also paintable. I
doubt it will hold paint if it flexes though. Mine being only along the edges
of the panels is not easily seen. It cleans off the panels (and nail heads) if
need be with acetone. "FC" designates "fast" cure, approximately 1 week for
full strength! 24 hours for tack free handling. I found it at OSH stores,
otherwise boat building suppliers will have it.
There'll probably be some water trapped, but here in dry southern Ca. I think
it is less of a problem than in other parts of the country/world. Maybe it
won't last 70 years this time.
Cheers,
Jack
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/mg-mmm
/// Send list postings to mg-mmm@autox.team.net
|