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RE:engine swap - opinions?

To: rkg@xamenek.ateq.com (Richard George)
Subject: RE:engine swap - opinions?
From: miq@chromavac.corp.sgi.com (Miq Millman)
Date: Thu, 12 Dec 91 11:11:52 PST
Whew!  With all this talk about engine swaps, I'm suprised that you all
forgot about Frankensprite.  (or maybe you didn't and don't want to hear
about it)  It's been about a month since the last update so I thought now
would be an excellent time for another one.  (I have a file of info I'm keeping
so this might look familiar)
To refresh memories:

Frankensprite is a 1963 Austin Healey Mk II that is getting a rotary engine.
Why MkII?  Well I really couldn't justify vilifying a bugeye that way, and
I like having a trunk and extra room in the cockpit.  The Mk II's are pretty 
light and the coil over kits for the rear suspension are better for the 1/4
elliptic than the 1/2 elliptic.  Plus Jeffie had a really nice rust free 
(almost) roller that was taking up space in his backyard/salvage yard.

Here's the scoop:

Use RX7 stuff:
        engine (12A with 6 port street port, IMSA GTU carb, free exhaust == 175 
hp)
        transmission (5 spd from 84 GSLSE)
        rear transaxel (83 GSL for disk brakes and limited slip)

Use sprite stuff:
        Trick racing suspension (coil over rears, tube shock fronts, anti-sway
        bars f & r, etc)
        gauges
        interior
        exterior

Fabricate stuff:
        wiring harness (using a Hot rodder fuse block)
        hydraulics (tilton and I have come up with a good set up I think)
        roll cage with engine mounts/suspension mounts and tube frame rear susp.
        custom drive shaft
        spitfire disks in front with mgb calipers.

I now have enought dollaroos to get the cage/frame done.  I will be packing
up everything that needs to go in and taking it over to the shop that is 
doing the work.  This is going to be around new year's.  

I ran into some problems with getting the mazda rear end narrowed.  The only
shop in the Bay Area that would touch "foriegn metal" (ie not a Ford or Chevy)
decided that he didn't want to do any work any more.  This was while he started
taking apart MY rear end and cleaning it in preparation to narrow it down and
change the bolt pattern.  So now I have a shiney clean rear end that hasn't 
been touched by a torch yet.  

Since the maxda rear end is only 1.6" wider than a sprite rear end, I did some
research and talked with my cage builder.  We decided that it would be possible
to fabricate a kind of tube chassis for the rearend similar to a de dion setup.
That the extra 3/4" on each side wouldn't hurt since I'm going to be putting 
fat tires and flare the rear wheel arches anyway. (round arch flares and 
convert the square arches to round)  This is going to cost about the same as
the narrowing of the mazda rear and buying the sprite coil-over tube shock
conversion kit, but will be a lot stronger.  

I bought a set of those replica minilites. 2 13x8's in a sprite bolt pattern,
2 13x8.5 in a mazda bolt pattern (front and rear sets).  Hoosier makes some
tires that will fit just perfectly.

Here's a quick break down of costs so far:

Sprite shell ~$200 in metal, paint and sandpaper to get it stripped and
primered.

175 hp 13B rotary engine long block (all the stuff attached) ported and
balanced, a mazda 5 spd transmission (new), mazda rear end with disk brakes
and limited slip ~$1750

Miscelaneous bits and pieces that can't be put on the car yet, but I will need
them. (seats, spitfire rotars, mgb calipers, tube shocks for the front, 
suspension bushings, K&N filter, some chrome bits) ~$500

Minilite rims $425

What I need to spend in the near future/distant future:

Integral 8 point roll cage that will incorperate engine mount points, and
rear suspension ~$1700

Earle's stainless steel lines and hoses for engine, brakes, etc ~$450

Electrical system ~$200

Dual master cylinder setup from tilton ~$250

tires ~$400

More paint for undercoating, and color finish (I'm seriously considering just
using common spray paint and inviting friends over to paint wild designs on
the car (flames and what not) then color sand that down get the car clear
coated at a professional shop to make it nice and shiney) ~$600

This adds up to about $6100 which is almost close to my original budget of
$5000 and certianly within the margin of error that usually hits projects 
like this.  

As always if you want mo' info, send email or give me a ring on the tele'.

-- 

Miq Millman -- miq@sgi.com or {decwrl,pyramid,ucbvax}!sgi!miq  415 335 1041






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