>Also... when I got home I almost cried. I just went out and spent ~$1200
>on
>4 max performance tires that were nearly shredded on the outside edges
>(that
>was with bumping the pressure way up). My mechanic buddy said that if I
>continued to run on these tires, I could expect to run 3-4 more races
>before
>having to get new tires. He, along with many others, has suggested that I
>invest in a separate set of wheels with racing tires. Sounds like a plan
>to
>me, but I need a little advice.
I did this at the SFR Autox school a couple of years ago. Wore 1/2 tread off
in one day.
Anyway, if you do this, you cannot compete in a Rookie Class, which you may
not care about. Also, the learning curve for R tires is supposed to be
steeper, which you probably should care about.
You can get more life from a street tire in this application by buying new
tires, then having them shaved to 4-5/32". I would suggest buying something
like Bridgestone RE-71's, shaving them, and running the crap out of them.
These cost under $100 for most sizes, and are actually great performance
tires, making this a good choice for an inexpensive "training tire".
Availability is drying up, though.
>There seem to be 4 main types of Hoosier racing tires: Road Racing, Road
>Racing Wets, Sports Car DOT Bias, and Sports Car DOT Radial. What are the
>differences, and what should I be running. As well, should I also run all
>four the same size, or keep them staggered like stock. Being that I have a
>moderate amount of under steer with the stock setup, I would be more
>inclined to go with the same size all around.
Hoosiers are the most expensive, most fragile, most tempermental autox
tires, and therefore possibly not the best choice for a beginner. They will
probably not last the whole season. If you have to buy an R tire now, I
would suggest Kumho.
Regards,
Rob
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