autox
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: engine swap in 93 RX-7

To: "David Disney" <disney7@icx.net>
Subject: Re: engine swap in 93 RX-7
From: "Dave Hardy" <dave2020@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 22:33:23 -0400
In my best Homer voice... DOH!

It wasn't my car, and I knew nothing about them.  On the Civic, where the
harness goes through the firewall, it branches out and goes throughout the
dash.  When I saw that the RX7 went into the firewall, I assumed the same.

As for the Mazda remanufactured engines, the one I installed let go in less
than a year.  The car was then sold for parts :(  I'd love to get a 2nd or
3rd Gen and do a v8 swap, but the Rotaries are too finicky for my taste.

Dave Hardy
89 SM
DILYSI Motorsports - Drive It Like You Stole It!

----- Original Message -----
From: David Disney <disney7@icx.net>
To: Dave Hardy <dave2020@mindspring.com>
Cc: <Bottorff25@aol.com>; <autox@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: engine swap in 93 RX-7


> Dave Hardy wrote:
>
> >IT SUCKS!!!  Actually I haven't messed with a 3rd Gen, but I changed the
> >motor in a non turbo 2nd Gen (89) and it was evil.  That engine swap was
> >worse than the other 6 put together.  I doubt it gets any easier with 2
> >turbos and more stringent emissions standards.
> >
> >Much of this is due to the fact that there was not a separate engine
> >harness.  It was part of the chassis harness.  This meant that the entire
> >engine had to be unwired before it could be pulled.  And there are a lot
of
> >wires.  We labeled all of the connectors and vacuum lines we removed, and
> >there were ~90 of them required to pull the motor.  Part of what
complicated
> >it was the fact that the Intake Manifold was "S" shaped, and bolted
together
> >in 3 separate pieces with wiring and vacuum lines running in the recesses
of
> >the "S".  For your sanity's sake, I hope they separated the chassis and
> >engine harnesses in the 3G.
> >
> Eh, all you have to do on the 2nd or 3rd gens is unplug the four
> connectors at the ECU, remove a
> bracket holding the harness on the inside of the car, and pull the whole
> harness out (firewall grommet
> and all) with the engine. Then you can mount it on a stand and take your
> time moving the manifolds,
> wiring, etc, over. Be careful with the oil metering pump lines. They
> tend to get brittle from the engine
> heat and will break easily.
>
> This is covered in the Mazda shop manual. You can get the manual from
> Mazdatrix or several other places
> for about $50. I highly recommend it.
>
> I can swap a 1st or 2nd gen (non-turbo) engine in about 2.5 hours. The
> 3rd gens do take longer because
> of the turbos and related pieces. If I take my time it usually takes a
> whole weekend to do one. Also, I
> usually also drop the transmission on the 3rd gens as it doesn't take
> much more time and it seems to make
> things go easier.
>
> Also, if you're going with a Mazda remanufactured engine they seem to be
> holding up well since Mazda
> reamped the rebuild facility a few years ago. I would recommend removing
> the oil pan, cleaning the
> surfaces well, and resealing it with RTV (use no gasket at all). They
> all seem to develop leaks if you
> don't to that.
>
>    - Dave Disney

///  unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net  or try
///  http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
///  Partial archives at http://www.team.net/archive


<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>