John---The jets are pressed in.To get your jets down lower than the .108 you
now have, here's how:
Cut a piece of 1/8 inch thick steel stock, small enough to fit over the jet,
but not so large as to touch the bushing that the jet is pressed into. (A piece
of 1/8 key stock about .187 long should work nicely)
Lay this stock across the jet and tap it down with a suitable punch to where it
(the key stock) is even with the top of the bridge. This will put the top of
the jet at a .125 depth.
Lowering the jets will certainly allow for a richer mix, but in honesty, this
"extra" depth is equivalent to about 1/2 turn on the screw adjustment that sets
needle height. (Lowering the jet is akin to raising the needle, so far as the
anular opening) So unless youve used up all of the needle height adjustment and
still want more, this jet lowering won't give you much of a difference.
I know you don't want to think about getting into the electricals, so here's
another idea:
Since you have a performance cam, be sure the lash is set to the cam grinder's
recommendation.
Let us know how you make out on all of this...
Dick
-----Original Message-----
From: John North
Sent: Wednesday, August 6, 2008 4:32 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Missing under load
Thanks for all the comments. I am so sick of working the electrical
side, I decided to work on the carbs.
I topped up the dashpots with 90wt oil (which is recommended by John
Twist the MGB guru). I noticed some improvement there. I think I
will try the B1E needles again - these give about a 10% increase in
flow. I did this before and didn't see any improvement, but then I
found several electrical issues that were no doubt contributing.
I did not change the jets when I did the carb rebuild, because they
did not come with the kit. John Curto recommends having the jets at
least .120 below the deck even as much as .160 below. Mine are .108.
How do I move these jets? Do I need some kind of fancy press?
Can I do it with a punch?
6pack@autox.team.net
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