On Fri, 7 Feb 2003 76tr6@optonline.net wrote:
> So that's the reason I cant correct the oil leakage from around my
> aluminum valve cover (P/N 223-340) and cap which I purchased from Moss
> last Spring. I thought is was how the cork gasket was placed, but
> maybe its both. I don't know about the rest of you but I'm pretty fed
> up with the lack of quality for the price of Moss parts. Best to ask
> for your various opinions before making another parts purchase from
> them.
No comment on the above. I buy parts from everyone and am generally
satisfied with what I get. I return what I can't use (very rarely) and
live with the rest. I have a valve cover from Moss that I like very much.
It leaks, but that's because I have a cylnder with 25% leakdown and my
crankcase is not ventilated enough to relieve that kind of pressure. Of
course running a motor at 6000 RPMs has these kinds of problems. My
solution is that I carry a rag to wipe the valve cover clean and I put an
empty castrol box under the car when it's parked. I certainly don't waste
any time getting down on any manufacturer because of the leak. Why stir up
negative vibes?
> With that said, I'm in the market for a "6 to 2" header that will fit my 76
>TR6 "perfectly" (without any mods, cutting, sizing, etc. necessary). I
>already know the Moss header (P/N 865-035) fits fine. I'd prefer the TRF
>stainless header (Group 44 design) but its too pricey.
> Any comments on the Moss header would be greatly appreciated
I have the Moss header on my street car. It was more or less a bolt-in. I
did have to resort to using at least one "allen head cap screw" in place
of a stud and nut (def. for the #1 exhaust port).
The one thing I don't like about that header is that it terminates to a
clamp-on flare. It's a pain to get it to re-seal if you pull the header.
You def. need a "flame wrench" for that job.
Were I to do the job again, I'd modify the header by welding a flange of
some sort to the end of both pipes (the flange would be like the downpipe
flange on the later twin downpipe TR6 exhaust manifold) so that you could
bolt/unbolt things.
I'd also get the header ceramic coated.
The one drawback to the Moss header (which I think may be from Kirk) is
that the primary tubes are _short_ (like under 18 inches). This moves the
power band _up_ a bit. For regular street driving, this means absolutely
nothing, but if your goal is max. performance, you want the longer primary
tubes of the so-called Group 44 header.
Like I usually say - you get what you pay for.
> Thanks,
> Seth Glassman
> 76 TR6 CF57223UO
regards,
rml
CF14111U
CR1871UO
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