I wholeheartedly second the GOOD grinder. A cheap one will overheat and burn
up, where (for example) my Milwaukee is going strong after 17 years of
abuse. It often gets too hot to hold without welding gloves! I don't think
I'll ever kill it.
A well spent $125.00 in my case.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
To: "Don Malling" <dmallin@attglobal.net>
Cc: "Richard Seaton" <rsh17@msn.com>; "Peter Macholdt"
<vze2846b@verizon.net>; "6-Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: Home welders
> Hi,
>
> The 20% duty cycle is not necessarily a problem. Like other respondents, I
> have a Lincoln WeldPak 110 with the MIG conversion. It works fine for
> doing bodywork on Triumphs. I have had mine for about 4 years and I am
> also very satisfied. In fact, after I bought it and used, I've come up
> with hundreds of other uses for it.
>
> The important factor for a welder is how good the wire feed is. A cheap
> welder will give you lots of problems with the wire feed, a good one is
> easier to setup and once setup will work just fine.
>
> The one thing to consider when getting into welding is that you will out
> of necessity need a lot of other tools. One such tool is an angle grinder.
> Get the best angle grinder you can, in either 4" or 4.5". Also get lots of
> grinding/cutting disks and last but not least a cup and wheel type wire
> brushes for the grinder. You won't believe how much you will use the
> grinding tools once you start doing rust repairs.
>
> Last - identify a local welding supply place ofor getting wire, grinding
> wheels, gas etc. If you're doing a real lot of work, you'll visit this
> place quite regularly.
>
> rml
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