Years ago when I first put my car back on the road I had a similar problem.
At the time I found an an excellent article in one of the old 6-Pack
newsletters that describes how to replace all the bearings on the crankshaft
without having to remove the engine. Bascially, you drop the oil pan and
replace bearing one at a time working from back to front on the crank. It
took about a week of evenings and one good Saturday. The end result, even
after 5 years of summer driving, is 70lb at startup, 50lb while cruising and
around 30lb at idle when the engine is really warm.
Thing is...I can't recall what issue of 6-Pack the article was in.
Phil Beckman
Libertyville, IL
'73
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 1:25 PM
To: Timbo00000@aol.com
Cc: 6packlist (E-mail)
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure and Inner Drive Shafts Lube
Timbo---Regarding the oil pressure, 50 lb. at start-up is very low, as
is the 20 lb. when the engine is cruising while warmed up. Warm
temperatures and the viscosity of the oil can affect both of these
numbers, but unless your oil pressure gauge is faulty, a rebuild will be
necessary to bring the pressure up. Since this engine is undoubtedly
worn, continued driving isn't likely to cause further harm. Loose valve
guides can be a source of oil burning, but does nothing for the oil
pressure itself.
On the rear drive shafts, (and prop shafts) original U-joints were
pre-packed, and had no outside way of greasing them, but most
replacement UJ's come with grease fittings. It's possible that you might
still have some of the originals, or whoever put in the new ones didn't
bother to put in the fittings.
The splined parts of both axles must be separated, and greased "by
hand." If or when you decide to check/grease these splines, you can then
do a closer inspection of the UJ's.
Dick T.
'73
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