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References: [ +from:igster@nauticom.net: 34 ]

Total 34 documents matching your query.

1. Re: starter relay wiring question (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 14 Dec 2000 09:05:37 -0500
I believe the other terminal jumps out the resistor wire in series with the the ig. coil ('75 models). I'd imagine for a hotter spark on starting. round where
/html/bricklin/2000-12/msg00027.html (7,166 bytes)

2. Re: Steering Troubles (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Oct 2000 13:31:44 -0400
The corvette suppliers (Eckler's, Dr. Rebuild, etc.) generally carry that part. It's called a rag joint. I'd say one for a 74 corvette should fit fine. Dave Farbacher joint mine hit thingy know leak
/html/bricklin/2000-10/msg00086.html (8,320 bytes)

3. Re: Ign. module problems (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 15:32:26 -0400
The 3 to 2 wire difference shouldn't be an issue. But, if you look on the 4 wire connector, the black and purple wires are swapped on the module with the blue grommet. Reversing these 2 wires should
/html/bricklin/2000-06/msg00065.html (9,554 bytes)

4. Re: Ign. module problems (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Jun 2000 11:36:50 -0400
Hi All, Well, I just had to try it. I had wired in the blue style ig. box when I rebuilt my engine harness and I hadn't tried it out yet. Unfortunately, I don't have the carb or exhaust mounted so I
/html/bricklin/2000-06/msg00069.html (14,022 bytes)

5. '75 Neutral Safety Switch / Seat Sliders (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 08:22:08 -0400
Hi All, Does anyone have a Ford or aftermarket P/N for a '75 neutral safety switch ? Also, does anyone know how/if the seat sliders come apart (for cleaning / greasing, etc.) ? Thanks, Dave Farbacher
/html/bricklin/2000-05/msg00032.html (6,498 bytes)

6. Re: horn relay (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Wed, 10 May 2000 13:25:12 -0400
Just 5 minutes before reading this I took apart my horn relay. I don't have any P/N's but the pinout is as follows. Looking at the bottom of the relay, the pins are arranged as follows. 2 1 3 1 - On
/html/bricklin/2000-05/msg00055.html (7,782 bytes)

7. Re: Wiring info. (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 14:30:23 -0400
The S terminal of the regulator goes to the wire coming from the ON position of the starter switch (red). The A terminal does go to the wire that runs between the ammeter and the output terminal of
/html/bricklin/2000-05/msg00069.html (8,359 bytes)

8. Re: Dash lights (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 13:03:58 -0400
If you check with Bulb Direct, they have a picture of the bulb in the 2000 catalog on page 12, it's figure 15. If you give them that info and let them know that it's 12 Volt / 2 Watt, they should be
/html/bricklin/2000-04/msg00121.html (7,702 bytes)

9. Re: Strut arm bushing (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 15:37:18 -0500
I'm showing that I put the 3090's on mine. Dave
/html/bricklin/2000-03/msg00070.html (6,846 bytes)

10. Re: Bushings... (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 16:45:00 -0500
The Bushing #'s you listed are from Point Spring & Driveshaft in the Pitsburgh area. The phone # is 800-837-7713 The "FLG" is listed as the product line The "RB-114" is the Part Number The cost was
/html/bricklin/2000-02/msg00135.html (7,214 bytes)

11. Re: Floor pans (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:05:46 -0500
If I'm remembering correctly the horizontal portion of that bar was right up against the rear floor panel. If it isn't I'd imagine it would bend as soon as the doors went up. Check the height of the
/html/bricklin/1999-11/msg00026.html (10,058 bytes)

12. Re: Idler Arm (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 1999 18:54:45 -0400
The TRW 18741 is the one you want. Dave Farbacher new Does
/html/bricklin/1999-07/msg00005.html (6,961 bytes)

13. Re: '75 Ignition Module (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 08:42:44 -0400
I had the same problem. As I was rebuilding, I figured - what the heck, I'll get a new ignition module while I was at it. Well the one I got also had the 2 wire connector and did not work. I just re
/html/bricklin/1999-06/msg00014.html (7,959 bytes)

14. Re: Headlights (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 08:43:21 -0400
I had the same problem with my Vette. The problem was a leaky vacuum relay. These valves can leak either at the control port (the one at the top), or at any of the three "switch" ports. Chances are
/html/bricklin/1999-05/msg00090.html (7,434 bytes)

15. Re: Brick, fiberglass work (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 07:38:11 -0500
I've seen the alligator skin looking stuff on my car. I don't know whether this is some sort of undercoating (for what reason I don't know) or whether this is some sort of gel coat that's coming off
/html/bricklin/1999-04/msg00000.html (7,866 bytes)

16. Re: Electric compressor? (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:11:52 -0500
Be a little careful with the selection of the air tubing as the pressure rating is generally at room temp. and drops as it gets colder. You might want to consider a higher rated tubing. Dave Farbach
/html/bricklin/1999-03/msg00137.html (9,878 bytes)

17. Re: 887 under disassembly (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 21:29:42 -0500
Taking all of that stuff off is the ABSOLUTE best way to go. If you can get the birdcage all alone, fixing holes, etc. is much easier. Good luck on the rear panel / rear quarter bond, mine kinda got
/html/bricklin/1999-03/msg00157.html (8,769 bytes)

18. Re: JOKE!!!!!!! (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 19:43:21 -0500
Yes, but were they driving a PERFECT BRICKLIN ??!! dave farbacher
/html/bricklin/1999-01/msg00071.html (8,357 bytes)

19. Re: Vacuum Cannister for headlight system (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Thu, 8 Oct 1998 16:11:48 -0400
Well, I have actually thinking about this a little bit, cause sooner or later (most likely later) I'm going to need one. Why not use a coffee can - Pop a hole in the can, empty it out, plug the hole
/html/bricklin/1998-10/msg00015.html (7,585 bytes)

20. Re: Vacuum Cannister for headlight system (score: 1)
Author: "Dave Farbacher" <igster@nauticom.net>
Date: Fri, 9 Oct 1998 09:04:42 -0400
Hey all, WARNING !!! - If you use an old propane cylinder, empty is NOT good enough !! When the cylinder is empty (that is, pressure inside the cylinder = atmospheric pressure), there is still propan
/html/bricklin/1998-10/msg00020.html (10,086 bytes)


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