Hi All,
Well, I just had to try it. I had wired in the blue style ig. box when I
rebuilt my engine harness and I hadn't tried it out yet. Unfortunately, I
don't have the carb or exhaust mounted so I couldn't actually run the car,
but -- I did hook up a battery and cranked the engine and I have tons of
spark out of the coil.
Now, I do have to correct my last email, my original ig. box is of the green
style. All I did when mounting the blue style was to reverse purple
(dist. -) and black (dist ground).
Whether the car will actually run with the blue style box is another story,
but it does spark.
When I get the carb back on the car I will let y'all know
Dave Farbacher
----- Original Message -----
From: John T. Blair <jblair@exis.net>
To: <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: Ign. module problems
> At 12:44 AM 6/23/00 EDT, Marvin wrote:
>
> >It was me you spoke to about 3 vs. 2 wires. I had the 3 wire harness and
2
> >wire module. I replaced my harness with a 2 wire from Terry as the 3
wire
> >didn't work. Another thing to check is to make sure the "blue" (where
the
> >wires come out) module is correct. I bought 2 different colors as one
> didn't
> >work. I'll check this weekend as to which color is right.
>
> ---------
>
> Then Dave Farbacher also wrote:
>
> The 3 to 2 wire difference shouldn't be an issue. But, if you look on the
4
> wire connector, the black and purple wires are swapped on the module with
> the blue grommet. Reversing these 2 wires should fix the problem.
>
> Dave Farbacher
>
> ------------
>
> Marvin, et al.
>
> Here is a copy of an email I just sent to Wells Manuf. Co.. I talked to
> one of their Tech reps, Brian, today. Brian was very helpful and a great
> guy to talk to on the phone. At first he was sure the problem was a bad
> ground. So I grounded the module to both the wiring harness ground on the
> back of the pass. fender well, and then to the battery to no avail. I
then
> called him back and we started going through the various wires. We both
> agreeded on the wires, what they did and were they went. However, he did
> indicate that the 2 wires comming off the dist. pickup were polarity
sensative
> - as they, Wells, had a diode on one of the input lines. So I proceeded
to
> connect the 4 wire connector with 4 aligator clips to and reversed the 2
> wires going the the dist. pickup. This also failed. By now Brian had gone
> home for the weekend.
>
> So I called my local autoparts store (AutoZone) and asked to talk to one
> of the counterpersons that knows me and the Bricklin. Asked if he had a
> BLACK connector module. He said yes so off I went, accompanied by my
> neighbor Jim (you keep hearing about him in The Brickline). Our friend
> at AutoZone pulled the BLACK connector module. The connectors were wrong.
> (See below). So we started checking other Ford V8s from 74-76. Found a
> GREEN module. Took it home and the eng. fired!!!!!
>
> So I've sent the following email to Brian to see what else we can learn
> about ign. modules.
>
> -----------------
>
> Brian,
>
> Been playing some more with the ign. module. I tried reversing the
> 2 wires to the ign. module for the dist. pickup and it still would not
> fire.
>
> Let me give you a little more backround:
>
> The original module:
>
> Motorcraft D5AE 12A99 xxx it looks like the xxx may be F2A can't tell.
> This module has a BLACK connector where the wires come out. However,
> there is a GREEN piece of plastic tape on the side.
>
> I originally purchased a F100 which had the BLACK connector where the
wires
> come out. This module would NOT work as the 2 wire connector's key was in
> a different position than the original three wire connector. So I
returned
> this module.
>
> I was then given the F102 module which had a BLUE connector. This is the
> one that wouldn't fire the car either. And I had when we were talking
> this afternoon (6/23/00). I tried grounding it and reversing the Dist.
> pickup leads and it wouldn't fire the eng.
>
> I called my autoparts store (AutoZone) and asked if they had a BLACK
> connector box. They said yes. So off I went to get it. When they
> pulled it, it had the wrong connector. So we started going through
> all the Ford V8 from 74 to 76. Most called for either the F102 or the
> F100. One (don't remember what) called for an F101. It had a GREEN
> connector and the plugs were right. Brought it home, plugged it in
> and the eng. light!!!!! :)
>
> So I guess my initial problem, getting the eng to fire with an (any)
> module is solved. However, now I have to ask the next obvious question.
> What is the difference between these boxes - F100, F101, and F102?
>
> Then the other question that I have to ask, is what does the F101 cross
> reference back to as an application so next time I can get the correct
> module?
>
> Finally are the F100 (BLACK) and F101 (GREEN) boxes basically the same
> with the exception of the orientation of the pins and key on the 2 wire
> connector? Remember that I told you that one of the other Bricklin owners
> had to purchase a different dist. harness? Could it be that he is using
> the F100, and the new harness just has a new 2 wire connector with the
> wires and key correctly positioned for the 2 wire connector?
>
> Any help you can provide as to the differences will be greatly
appreciated.
> I am assuming that the F101 (GREEN) ign. module will work on my Ford 351W
> eng. across the entire rpm range, and NOT break down at some point above
> say 3,000 rpms.
>
> Thanks for you help Friday.
>
> John
>
> ------------------------
>
> Hopefully, he'll get back to me and I'll have more info to pass on later
> next week.
>
> Hope you all find this interesting.
>
> John
>
>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
> Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III
>
> Morgan: www.team.net/www/morgan
> Bricklin: www.bricklin.org
>
|