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References: [ +from:ericm@lne.com: 357 ]

Total 357 documents matching your query.

221. Re: parts washer build or buy (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 09:36:16 -0800
The other advantage of a purpose-built unit is that it will have a close-fitting lid with a thermal catch- the idea is that if the lid's propped open and the solvent catches fire, the thermal catch w
/html/shop-talk/2000-01/msg00105.html (8,717 bytes)

222. Re: Who makes what tools? (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 10:47:10 -0800
What's OGV mean? Thanks. -- Eric Murray www.lne.com/~ericm ericm at the site lne.com PGP keyid:E03F65E5
/html/shop-talk/1999-12/msg00022.html (7,415 bytes)

223. Re: The Ideal Shop HELP (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 10:21:47 -0800
Yea, I'm totally envious. A paint booth would be nice too. The book "How to Set Up Your Motorcycle Workshop" (C.G. Masi, Whitehorse Press 1996) would be useful. It's got a lot of info about lighting
/html/shop-talk/1999-12/msg00129.html (10,064 bytes)

224. Re: Tap and Die set (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 28 Dec 1999 11:05:10 -0800
Well, that's different for different people- all my stuff is metric and I work on bikes more than cars, so it's 8x1, 10x1, 10x1.25, 12x1.25 which get the most use. If you get the cheap HF set as some
/html/shop-talk/1999-12/msg00239.html (8,617 bytes)

225. Re: Painting small parts (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 08:22:29 -0800
I made one in a back room of a house once. It had a concrete floor and had been used as a workshop by a previous tennant. My paint booth consisted of plastic sheeting stapled over the walls and ceili
/html/shop-talk/1999-11/msg00026.html (9,339 bytes)

226. Re: Painting small parts (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:57:57 -0800
Maybe. I put the fan a ways down the duct on the theory that more of the volatile compounds would evaporate, or would be at a lower concentration, by the time they reached the fan motor. Also, when s
/html/shop-talk/1999-11/msg00029.html (8,111 bytes)

227. shop building costs? (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:13:39 -0800
Does anyone have an idea what typical costs for a wood-frame shop building in Santa Clara/Silicon Valley area is? (yea, I know it varies a lot, just a ballpark or an "I built an XYZ type/size buildin
/html/shop-talk/1999-11/msg00097.html (6,531 bytes)

228. Re: Another frozen fastner question (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 07:55:20 -0800
I third it. They're really useful. Can you heat the wheel where the screw is from the back? Even getting the area around the screw "sorta warm" can help. -- Eric Murray Security Consultant-- crypto,
/html/shop-talk/1999-11/msg00110.html (7,367 bytes)

229. Re: refurbished chain saw (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 17:26:44 -0700
I got a reconditioned Homelite from Harbor Freight, and the oiler was broken, making the saw pretty much useless. Actually, I managed to use it to cut down a small tree, by stopping every so often an
/html/shop-talk/1999-10/msg00023.html (7,393 bytes)

230. Re: siamese compressors (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 16:38:05 -0700
Seems like you could just tee them into the distribution lines. If you run only one compressor, the other's tank would just act like extra air lines or an 'air pig' (tank with no compressor) plumbed
/html/shop-talk/1999-09/msg00001.html (7,925 bytes)

231. Re: siamese compressors (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:45:12 -0700
It's unlikely that both compressors will have the same cut-in/out points. So, say that compressor A is set up for cut-in at 110 and out at 140, and compressor B is set up for cut-in at 100 and out at
/html/shop-talk/1999-09/msg00004.html (10,256 bytes)

232. Re: Safety Wire (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 13:37:16 -0700
You should use a 'soft' wire which does not work-harden. Usually stainless steel wire is used. Stainless safety wire comes in three common diameters- .023, .032 and .040 (or is it .042?). I prefer th
/html/shop-talk/1999-07/msg00030.html (8,649 bytes)

233. Re: E-Z Out (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:11:30 -0700
When I have had this happen, I've managed to grind out the E-Z out with a carbide bit in a Dremel tool. Takes a while. I have used a different design 'E-Z out' made by Rigid. These consist of rods of
/html/shop-talk/1999-05/msg00057.html (8,862 bytes)

234. broken crank (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:26:56 -0700
If the crank is a pressed-together type, you might be able to get a crank-builder to replace the end that's broken. That might be cheaper than replacing the crank. You will still have to split the ca
/html/shop-talk/1999-05/msg00082.html (6,909 bytes)

235. Re: briggs&stratton engine replacement (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 07:41:29 -0700
Northern Hydraulic has a bunch of engines. I think that they sell a Honda engine which is a direct bolt-in replacement for the normal BS 5hp, for just a little bit more $$. I've got Honda and BS util
/html/shop-talk/1999-04/msg00084.html (7,310 bytes)

236. Re: rounded off nut removal (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:15:55 -0800
If that doesn't work, try slitting the nut with a cut-off wheel in a dremel tool. Even if you don't slice all the way throught the nut, cutting most of the way through will loosen it up. -- Eric Murr
/html/shop-talk/1999-02/msg00026.html (9,149 bytes)

237. Re: Singing the praises of Simple Green (NOT!) (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:44:49 -0800
Simple Green also eats some paints. The purple stuff is, according to its label, not for use on aluminum. -- Eric Murray N*Able Technologies www.nabletech.com (email: ericm at the sites lne.com or na
/html/shop-talk/1999-02/msg00066.html (8,334 bytes)

238. Re: Heating a Garage (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 08:26:17 -0800
If your garage has poor insulation, consider fixing that first. I have a 3-car (really 10 motorcycle and one lawn tractor) garage, with a large attic. The attic wasn't finished and wasn't insulated,
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00040.html (8,775 bytes)

239. Re: Heating a Garage (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:49:16 -0800
If those are the sort of roll-up doors which have ~2-foot sections that run on wheels in a track, I have the same kind of doors. Mine're pretty cheap, the backs are just made of pressboard. How would
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00052.html (8,700 bytes)

240. Re: Curtain doors (was RE: Garage Headroom for Lift) (score: 1)
Author: Eric Murray <ericm@lne.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:15:42 -0800
Maybe they're just confused by your terminology. I've always heard those called "roll-up" doors. The ones I've used have had a long loop of chain like a hoist's that you pull one way to open, the oth
/html/shop-talk/1999-01/msg00244.html (8,680 bytes)

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