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Total 11 documents matching your query.

1. Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "Dave Scarlett @ TubeTech" <scarlett@tubetechltd.com>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 08:54:17 -0400; OK lets try this one. I've recently moved and I'm planning to convert an old 20 X 40' drive shed to a workshop. The existing cement floor has some deep cracks and to remove this floor would be darn n; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00025.html (7,684 bytes)
2. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: Tombread@aol.com; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 09:36:52 EDT; It is likely your existing floor has cracks because it has settled due to cavitation. You should have the base mud-jacked for support (fill the hollows under your old floor with a slurry mixture) bef; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00027.html (7,592 bytes)
3. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: Henry Frye <thefryes@iconn.net>; Date: Wed, 03 May 2000 10:37:16 -0400; I agree with Tom. I put radiant heat in my shop floor when I built from scratch and I was very concerned about how the tubing would handle settlement. The tubing does not appear to be able to take mu; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00028.html (9,498 bytes)
4. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: EeeMCee@cs.com; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 13:31:19 EDT; So far all the approaches seem VERY expensive. Putting pipes in a slab of cement also means it takes a long time to get any heat out of the system. I'd put a grid of 2X4's down on 16" centers and lay; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00032.html (8,146 bytes)
5. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "Charles Christ" <cfchrist@earthlink.net>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 12:36:58 -0000; heated floors are real neat untill the cement starts to react with the plumbing and rots the plumbing away. had this experience in a lincoln/mercury dealership i worked at back in the mid 80's. they; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00033.html (8,682 bytes)
6. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "John Lehman" <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:10:06 -0400; Removing the old floor would probably be a real job! If you can spare the headroom, an overpour would be much easier. Besides, the old concrete has stabilized over the years and probably isn't going; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00034.html (9,069 bytes)
7. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "John Lehman" <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:28:34 -0400; Note that a good grade of Pex pipe (pex-a) will take a great deal of flexing and stretching without harm. I would probably guess that your slab has done all the settling it will ever do unless you're; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00036.html (8,077 bytes)
8. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "John Lehman" <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:42:00 -0400; looked Henry, Very nice compliment for radiant floor and Wirsbo. Wirsbo has been at it longer than anyone with pex pipe and the heat is unbeatable, both for comfort and economy. Wirsbo also sponsors; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00037.html (9,115 bytes)
9. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "John Lehman" <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 14:46:38 -0400; My dad had the same experience with steel pipe in the shop floors of several of the buildings he had built for the Hertz rental stations he ran. Nowadays we use Pex (cross-linked polyethylene) which; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00038.html (9,537 bytes)
10. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: Ccanepa50@aol.com; Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 21:02:20 EDT; you got one response from the Wirsbo Rep on the list, as a radiant heating contractor in the san francisco area I will second his recommendation of using a high quality PEX tubing,(PEX is short for c; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00040.html (8,304 bytes)
11. Re: Shop Floors (score: 1): Author: "John Lehman" <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; Date: Thu, 4 May 2000 16:37:07 -0400; Here! Here! I couldn't agree more with your assesment of outdoor reset, but the cost of controls can scare some people off. I guess it's a matter of degree; just how comfortable or efficient do you; /html/vintage-race/2000-05/msg00054.html (9,212 bytes)

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