Chuck,
My dad had the same experience with steel pipe in the shop floors of several
of the buildings he had built for the Hertz rental stations he ran.
Nowadays we use Pex (cross-linked polyethylene) which does not corrode and
stands 200 degF and 80 psi continuously. I wouldn't suggest any metal pipe
in concrete. And yes, these days I sell and design these systems as a rep
for Wirsbo.
John Lehman
Ohio Regional Office
J.C. Mottinger Associates, Inc.
Manufacturers' Representatives
1008 Crook St., Grafton, OH 44044
Ph: (440) 926-2404 Fax (440 ) 926-1194
JELehman@ix.netcom.com www.Wirsbo.com
> heated floors are real neat untill the cement starts to react with the
> plumbing and rots the plumbing away. had this experience in a
> lincoln/mercury dealership i worked at back in the mid 80's. they
> ecided( while we <the mechanics> froze our tails off ) that it was too
> expensive to repair the plumbing and installed forced hot air heat via
> overhead duct work.
> what ever you do decide to do , carefully decide what plumbing is
compatible
> with the corosive tendancies of concrete. if yer gonna do the job make it
> last?
> just my .02 worth, for what it is worth......
>
> chuck.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Scarlett @ TubeTech <scarlett@tubetechltd.com>
> To: John Lehman <JELehman@ix.netcom.com>; varac <varac@egroups.com>;
Vintage
> race (E-mail) <vintage-race@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 03, 2000 12:54 PM
> Subject: Shop Floors
>
>
> > OK lets try this one. I've recently moved and I'm
> > planning to convert an old 20 X 40' drive shed
> > to a workshop. The existing cement floor has some
> > deep cracks and to remove this floor would be darn
> > near impossible, and I also want to install radiant floor
> > heating. So how about building a grid of say 3/4"
> > CS pipe to carry the glycol and reinforce the floor
> > at the same time? Then maybe 4" of new cement
> > over that?
> >
> > Thanks John L for your earlier communications.
> >
> >
> >
>
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