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When I bought my Magnette it was in a sad state. It had an AC fuel pump mod=
el number=20
12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting. I have always wante=
d to have it reworked. (I don't know if it works or not . Just assume that=
with the rubber parts would be shot.)
I also have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and pieces marked BMC=
factory approved rebuilt #4080. Anyone know where the bits to repair the A=
C pump could be found? =20
Sent from my iPad
On Nov 13, 2013, at 7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore <gofanu@cust.usachoice.net> w=
rote:
> Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the fuel transf=
er passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to the metering needle, it b=
locks the jet, as water will not go through the same small hole as gas will.=
When the engine stops sucking so hard, the water falls down, letting gas th=
rough. If you get the demand high enough, the needle is high enough that fue=
l flows around the water, but it still leaves the water in the bottom. (on H=
S carbs with clear transfer tubes, you can actually see this happen) Easiest=
thing is to dump a double dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in it - the=
cans are usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right. The cleaner may=
also remove varnish etc on float and metering needles.
> Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is wishful guessw=
ork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it on something with the inlet=
end downwards - see if any water comes out. Water does not go through good f=
ilters easily, but it can under some conditions, and it only takes about a h=
alf cc to block the jet as described.=20
> (banging the filter like this can get you home when water blocks the filte=
r too. In winter, a little water will freeze over a filter very easily, maki=
ng for a very cold walk home. This was standard procedure on the big truck, a=
s diesel is often contaminated; I finally started using filters with drain p=
lugs, which I checked regularly for water.)
>=20
> FRM
>=20
> On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John Perkins wrote:
>> Arch:
>> I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT with the battery cover off=
of the car so I could tap the fuel pump with the lug wrench every 10 miles f=
or 130 miles to keep enough fuel flowing to get me home. SU Fuel pu=
mps don't really die, they become zombies that need to be resurrected.
>> I had a similar problem to yours that turned out to be worn needles a=
nd seats in the carbs. The seats were worn to a point that the needles woul=
d stick. Sometimes the rattle from the last gasp of the engine would shake t=
hem loose, other times a quick rap from the handle end of a screwdriver woul=
d shake them loose. Real Grose jets cured the issue.
>> Perkins
>>=20
>> On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
>>> Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection??? I always thought w=
hen they died they were dead.=20
>>>=20
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>=20
>>> On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <jromans55@msn.com> wrote:
>>>=20
>>>>=20
>>>> order your fuel pump now...then ready for final failure... on a 100 deg=
ree day mine layed down 1 mile from home in parking lot ,after a 100 mile tr=
ip. once the car cooled down, started right up and drove home. next time wou=
ldnt start. FUEL PUMP TIME.
>>>> Jeff Romans
>>>> 1958 Magnette ZB
>>>> > From: arch.boston@twc.com
>>>> > Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500
>>>> > To: zmagnette@autox.team.net
>>>> > Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check first???
>>>> >=20
>>>> > My car has developed a problem..... The last few times I have driven t=
he car it does the same thing. It will be running just fine and then it will=
start to act as if it is running out of gas. Stumbling and trying to die...=
. After I bleep the throttle a few times thinking it is truly "AAA time" the=
car will run just fine. There is a fuel filter between the gas tank and fue=
l pump. The filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, i=
t is not needing replacement. The fuel pump is an electronic unit not SU. Sh=
ould I suspect the fuel pump? In the past when I needed to replace a pump it=
was dead --- not working part of the time and fine later. What should I che=
ck first??? Arch
>>>> >=20
>>>> > Sent from my iPad
>>>> > _______________________________________________
>>>> > Zmagnette mailing list
>>>> >=20
>>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/j=
romans55@msn.com
>>>> >=20
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>>>=20
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/arc=
h.boston@twc.com
>>>>=20
>>>=20
>>>=20
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/wren=
ch@attglobal.net
>>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>=20
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/gofan=
u@cust.usachoice.net
>>=20
>=20
> _______________________________________________
> Zmagnette mailing list
>=20
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/arch.b=
oston@twc.com
>=20
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charset=utf-8
<html><head></head><body bgcolor="#FFFFFF"><div>When I bought my Magnette it
was in a sad state. It had an AC fuel pump model
number </div><div>12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting.
I have always wanted to have it reworked. (I don't know if it works or
not . Just assume that with the rubber parts would be shot.)<br>I also
have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and pieces marked BMC factory
approved rebuilt #4080. Anyone know where the bits to repair the AC pump
could be found? <br>Sent from my iPad</div><div><br>On Nov 13, 2013, at
7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore <<a
href="mailto:gofanu@cust.usachoice.net">gofanu@cust.usachoice.net</a>>
wrote:<br><br></div><div></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type">
Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the fuel
transfer passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to the
metering needle, it blocks the jet, as water will not go through the
same small hole as gas will. When the engine stops sucking so hard,
the water falls down, letting gas through. If you get the demand
high enough, the needle is high enough that fuel flows around the
water, but it still leaves the water in the bottom. (on HS carbs
with clear transfer tubes, you can actually see this happen) Easiest
thing is to dump a double dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in
it - the cans are usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right.
The cleaner may also remove varnish etc on float and metering
needles.<br>
Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is wishful
guesswork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it on something
with the inlet end downwards - see if any water comes out. Water
does not go through good filters easily, but it can under some
conditions, and it only takes about a half cc to block the jet as
described. <br>
(banging the filter like this can get you home when water blocks the
filter too. In winter, a little water will freeze over a filter very
easily, making for a very cold walk home. This was standard
procedure on the big truck, as diesel is often contaminated; I
finally started using filters with drain plugs, which I checked
regularly for water.)<br>
<br>
FRM<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John Perkins
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:528402A6.6050002@attglobal.net" type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" http-equiv="Content-Type">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Arch:<br>
I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT with the
battery
cover off of the car so I could tap the fuel pump with the lug
wrench every 10 miles for 130 miles to keep enough fuel flowing
to get me home. SU Fuel pumps don't really die, they become
zombies that need to be resurrected.<br>
I had a similar problem to yours that turned out to
be worn
needles and seats in the carbs. The seats were worn to a point
that the needles would stick. Sometimes the rattle from the
last gasp of the engine would shake them loose, other times a
quick rap from the handle end of a screwdriver would shake them
loose. Real Grose jets cured the issue.<br>
Perkins<br>
<br>
On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:A34C74B4-5DBC-4531-AA54-B4318CC144A4@twc.com"
type="cite">
<div>Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection??? I
always thought when they died they were dead. <br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad</div>
<div><br>
On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <<a
moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:jromans55@msn.com">jromans55@msn.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<style><!--
.hmmessage P
{
margin:0px;
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}
body.hmmessage
{
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font-family:Calibri
}
--></style>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<em>order your fuel pump now...then ready for final
failure...</em> on a 100 degree day mine layed down 1
mile from home in parking lot ,after a 100 mile trip. once
the car cooled down, started right up and drove home. next
time wouldnt start. FUEL PUMP TIME.<br>
Jeff Romans<br>
1958 Magnette ZB<br>
<div>> From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:arch.boston@twc.com">arch.boston@twc.com</a><br>
> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500<br>
> To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net">zmagnette@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check first???<br>
> <br>
> My car has developed a problem..... The last few
times I have driven the car it does the same thing. It
will be running just fine and then it will start to act
as if it is running out of gas. Stumbling and trying to
die.... After I bleep the throttle a few times thinking
it is truly "AAA time" the car will run just fine. There
is a fuel filter between the gas tank and fuel pump. The
filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, it is
not needing replacement. The fuel pump is an electronic
unit not SU. Should I suspect the fuel pump? In the past
when I needed to replace a pump it was dead --- not
working part of the time and fine later. What should I
check first??? Arch<br>
> <br>
> Sent from my iPad<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Zmagnette mailing list<br>
> <br>
> Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Archive: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/forums">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/jromans55@msn.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/jromans55@msn.com</a><br>
> <br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
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</div></blockquote><blockquote
type="cite"><div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br><span>Zmagnette
mailing list</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a
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