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The "AC" pump is also known as "Autopulse" and many other names. Look up
"EP12 fuel pump". It was actually made by Walbro.
http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html
Obsolete, replaced by a number of successors. Note that "EP12S" is the
solid state round replacement, also sold by many others.
If it is old enough, it has a brass bellows; later rubber bellows. Last
I looked, the bellows kit (only))was still available.
http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html
Points can usually be cleaned. Like most aftermarket pumps, it came as
low or high pressure, controlled by the main spring inside. You want the
LP version. I have posted this a million times, where??? Might be on
Dave DuBois' site; Dave can also tell you what that recon SU number
corresponds to.
FRM
On 11/13/2013 8:55 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
> When I bought my Magnette it was in a sad state. It had an AC fuel
> pump model number
> 12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting. I have always
> wanted to have it reworked. (I don't know if it works or not . Just
> assume that with the rubber parts would be shot.)
> I also have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and pieces
> marked BMC factory approved rebuilt #4080. Anyone know where the bits
> to repair the AC pump could be found?
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 13, 2013, at 7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore
>
>> Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the fuel
>> transfer passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to the
>> metering needle, it blocks the jet, as water will not go through the
>> same small hole as gas will. When the engine stops sucking so hard,
>> the water falls down, letting gas through. If you get the demand high
>> enough, the needle is high enough that fuel flows around the water,
>> but it still leaves the water in the bottom. (on HS carbs with clear
>> transfer tubes, you can actually see this happen) Easiest thing is to
>> dump a double dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in it - the cans
>> are usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right. The cleaner
>> may also remove varnish etc on float and metering needles.
>> Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is wishful
>> guesswork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it on something
>> with the inlet end downwards - see if any water comes out. Water does
>> not go through good filters easily, but it can under some conditions,
>> and it only takes about a half cc to block the jet as described.
>> (banging the filter like this can get you home when water blocks the
>> filter too. In winter, a little water will freeze over a filter very
>> easily, making for a very cold walk home. This was standard procedure
>> on the big truck, as diesel is often contaminated; I finally started
>> using filters with drain plugs, which I checked regularly for water.)
>>
>> FRM
>>
>> On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John Perkins wrote:
>>> Arch:
>>> I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT with the battery
>>> cover off of the car so I could tap the fuel pump with the lug
>>> wrench every 10 miles for 130 miles to keep enough fuel flowing to
>>> get me home. SU Fuel pumps don't really die, they become zombies
>>> that need to be resurrected.
>>> I had a similar problem to yours that turned out to be worn
>>> needles and seats in the carbs. The seats were worn to a point that
>>> the needles would stick. Sometimes the rattle from the last gasp of
>>> the engine would shake them loose, other times a quick rap from the
>>> handle end of a screwdriver would shake them loose. Real Grose jets
>>> cured the issue.
>>> Perkins
>>>
>>> On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:
>>>> Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection??? I always
>>>> thought when they died they were dead.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <jromans55@msn.com
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> /order your fuel pump now...then ready for final failure.../ on a
>>>>> 100 degree day mine layed down 1 mile from home in parking lot
>>>>> ,after a 100 mile trip. once the car cooled down, started right up
>>>>> and drove home. next time wouldnt start. FUEL PUMP TIME.
>>>>> Jeff Romans
>>>>> 1958 Magnette ZB
>>>>> > Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500
>>>>> > Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check first???
>>>>> >
>>>>> > My car has developed a problem..... The last few times I have
>>>>> driven the car it does the same thing. It will be running just
>>>>> fine and then it will start to act as if it is running out of gas.
>>>>> Stumbling and trying to die.... After I bleep the throttle a few
>>>>> times thinking it is truly "AAA time" the car will run just fine.
>>>>> There is a fuel filter between the gas tank and fuel pump. The
>>>>> filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, it is not needing
>>>>> replacement. The fuel pump is an electronic unit not SU. Should I
>>>>> suspect the fuel pump? In the past when I needed to replace a pump
>>>>> it was dead --- not working part of the time and fine later. What
>>>>> should I check first??? Arch
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Sent from my iPad
>>>>> > _______________________________________________
>>>>> > Zmagnette mailing list
>>>>> >
>>>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/jromans55@msn.com
>>>>> >
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>>>>
>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/arch.boston@twc.com
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>>>
>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/wrench@attglobal.net
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>>
>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums:http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/gofanu@cust.usachoice.net
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Zmagnette mailing list
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/arch.boston@twc.com
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Zmagnette mailing list
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/gofanu@cust.usachoice.net
>
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http-equiv="Content-Type">
</head>
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The "AC" pump is also known as "Autopulse" and many other names.
Look up "EP12 fuel pump". It was actually made by Walbro. <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html";>http://www.fuel-pumps.net/2401crossreference.html</a><br>
Obsolete, replaced by a number of successors. Note that "EP12S" is
the solid state round replacement, also sold by many others.<br>
If it is old enough, it has a brass bellows; later rubber bellows.
Last I looked, the bellows kit (only))was still available. <br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html";>http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/bel_pump.html</a><br>
Points can usually be cleaned. Like most aftermarket pumps, it came
as low or high pressure, controlled by the main spring inside. You
want the LP version. I have posted this a million times, where???
Might be on Dave DuBois' site; Dave can also tell you what that
recon SU number corresponds to.<br>
<br>
FRM<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2013 8:55 PM, Arch Boston
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:33D1D125-AC33-41FD-A20E-C050C3BF1AC0@twc.com"
type="cite">
<div>When I bought my Magnette it was in a sad state. It had an
AC fuel pump model number </div>
<div>12V -EP 12. The pump is a good looking aluminum casting. I
have always wanted to have it reworked. (I don't know if it
works or not . Just assume that with the rubber parts would be
shot.)<br>
I also have a SU fuel pump gotten with some other bits and
pieces marked BMC factory approved rebuilt #4080. Anyone know
where the bits to repair the AC pump could be found? <br>
Sent from my iPad</div>
<div><br>
On Nov 13, 2013, at 7:21 PM, Fletcher Millmore <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:gofanu@cust.usachoice.net";>gofanu@cust.usachoice.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
Water in the carbs can cause this. A slug of water lies in the
fuel transfer passages in the carb - when it gets sucked up to
the metering needle, it blocks the jet, as water will not go
through the same small hole as gas will. When the engine stops
sucking so hard, the water falls down, letting gas through. If
you get the demand high enough, the needle is high enough that
fuel flows around the water, but it still leaves the water in
the bottom. (on HS carbs with clear transfer tubes, you can
actually see this happen) Easiest thing is to dump a double
dose of DriGas or fuel system cleaner in it - the cans are
usually for 20 gal, so a whole can is about right. The cleaner
may also remove varnish etc on float and metering needles.<br>
Your comment that the filter is of unknown age but is OK is
wishful guesswork - change it. And when you remove it, bang it
on something with the inlet end downwards - see if any water
comes out. Water does not go through good filters easily, but
it can under some conditions, and it only takes about a half
cc to block the jet as described. <br>
(banging the filter like this can get you home when water
blocks the filter too. In winter, a little water will freeze
over a filter very easily, making for a very cold walk home.
This was standard procedure on the big truck, as diesel is
often contaminated; I finally started using filters with drain
plugs, which I checked regularly for water.)<br>
<br>
FRM<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/13/2013 5:52 PM, John
Perkins wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:528402A6.6050002@attglobal.net"
type="cite">
<meta content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1"
http-equiv="Content-Type">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Arch:<br>
I once spent a winter evening in my MGB-GT
with the
battery cover off of the car so I could tap the fuel pump
with the lug wrench every 10 miles for 130 miles to keep
enough fuel flowing to get me home. SU Fuel pumps don't
really die, they become zombies that need to be
resurrected.<br>
I had a similar problem to yours that turned
out to be
worn needles and seats in the carbs. The seats were worn
to a point that the needles would stick. Sometimes the
rattle from the last gasp of the engine would shake them
loose, other times a quick rap from the handle end of a
screwdriver would shake them loose. Real Grose jets cured
the issue.<br>
Perkins<br>
<br>
On 11/13/2013 4:38 PM, Arch Boston wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:A34C74B4-5DBC-4531-AA54-B4318CC144A4@twc.com"
type="cite">
<div>Jeff, I have had fuel pumps die, but, reserection???
I always thought when they died they were dead. <br>
<br>
Sent from my iPad</div>
<div><br>
On Nov 13, 2013, at 4:34 PM, JEFF ROMANS <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:jromans55@msn.com";>jromans55@msn.com</a>>
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<style><!--
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<div dir="ltr"><br>
<em>order your fuel pump now...then ready for final
failure...</em> on a 100 degree day mine layed
down 1 mile from home in parking lot ,after a 100
mile trip. once the car cooled down, started right
up and drove home. next time wouldnt start. FUEL
PUMP TIME.<br>
Jeff Romans<br>
1958 Magnette ZB<br>
<div>> From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:arch.boston@twc.com";>arch.boston@twc.com</a><br>
> Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 16:20:03 -0500<br>
> To: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:zmagnette@autox.team.net";>zmagnette@autox.team.net</a><br>
> Subject: [Zmagnette] What should I check
first???<br>
> <br>
> My car has developed a problem..... The last
few times I have driven the car it does the same
thing. It will be running just fine and then it
will start to act as if it is running out of gas.
Stumbling and trying to die.... After I bleep the
throttle a few times thinking it is truly "AAA
time" the car will run just fine. There is a fuel
filter between the gas tank and fuel pump. The
filter doesn't look freshly installed, however, it
is not needing replacement. The fuel pump is an
electronic unit not SU. Should I suspect the fuel
pump? In the past when I needed to replace a pump
it was dead --- not working part of the time and
fine later. What should I check first??? Arch<br>
> <br>
> Sent from my iPad<br>
>
_______________________________________________<br>
> Zmagnette mailing list<br>
> <br>
> Donate: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/donate.html";>http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Forums: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a><br>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/jromans55@msn.com";>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/zmagnette/jromans55@msn.com</a><br>
> <br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div><span>_______________________________________________</span><br>
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href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br>
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