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Re: Front brake job - what to do?

To: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>, "Joe Merone" <jmerone@rocketmail.com>, "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Front brake job - what to do?
From: "Phil Ethier" <pethier@isd.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2003 00:43:18 -0600
References: <NOEDJDCNFBCNELMBFNFEMELKEEAA.Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall Young" <Ryoung@navcomtech.com>
To: "Joe Merone" <jmerone@rocketmail.com>; "Triumph List"
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 1:13 PM
Subject: RE: Front brake job - what to do?


> > But how about the rotors?  They look good and smooth and have
> > never been turned before.  Should I turn them now or just buy
> > new?
>
> Joe, this is definitely not a mainstream opinion ...

But it's mine.

> but I never have rotors
> turned unless there is a problem.  TR rotors are cheap enough, but I've
> owned vehicles where they were not so cheap (like $250 apiece).  Unless
the
> runout is excessive (spin the hub and watch the surface of the rotor move
in
> and out relative to the caliper/pad), or they're worn well past the
> published wear limit, I leave them alone, except perhaps to scuff the
> surface a bit if they look glazed.

I don't face off concentric grooves, either.  If there is no runout, and the
grooves are smooth, the pads will bed into them and work just fine.

Often, especially with ventilated discs, refacing a warped disc just means
it will warp faster next time.  So I genrally see two courses of action:

1.  The disk is wavy, but all is smooth and concentric.  Put in new pads and
leave the disk alone.

2.  The disk is shaped like a potato chip.  Bite the bullet and pop in a new
disk.  Hard bullet to bite in those 250-dollar disks, but they are probably
ventilated discs which will just warp faster after facing off the old warp.

> >  The calipers seem fine also.  Should they automatically be
> > rebuilt?  Are stainless steel pistons worth it?
>
> Again, I wouldn't touch them unless they have a problem.  SS pistons may
be
> worthwhile if you don't use silicone fluif, and the old pistons are pitted
> or rusty, but I wouldn't just automatically change them.
>
> Any time you open the hydraulics, you introduce the chance for more
> problems.  Dirt, water, defective or marginal new components ... all are
at
> least a possibility.

Right again.  If they don't leak or stick, power-bleed some new Castrol in
there and carry on.

Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul  Minnesota  USA
1970 Lotus Europa 65/2597, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Suburban, 1962 TR4 CT2846L
pethier@isd.net  http://www.mnautox.com/  http://www.lotusowners.com

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