Just thought I'd share my continued experience on this topic:
I was all excited about installing the valve seals this weekend after the parts
came in at the local NAPA store.
I bought rubber seals with teflon inserts (where it rubs the valve stem) and a
small wire split ring to act a spring retainer where it holds on to the valve
guide.
Contrary to some other's experiences, I was able to find TDC on the cylinders
close enough to keep the engine from turning when I applied air pressure.
It took a little trial and error . .but it worked. (I also took the
opportunity to do use a leak down tester which operates at much lower
pressures)
I suppose one of those little whistle attachments would work to find TDC but
mine hadn't arrived yet so . . . This may sound gross, but I actually put the
air fitting from the cylinder filler air hose in my mouth as I pulled on the
fan to turn the engine. The air gushed out on the compression stroke and it
would start sucking as I went past TDC. I put my tongue on the end of the
fitting and just rocked the fan back and forth until I found the place where a
slight movement in either direction caused no sucking or blowing.
I then gradually put air pressure in the cylinder and if it started to turn, I
stopped and tried again. The most it took me was 3 tries on any one cylinder
to get it close enough to the top so that 125psi wouldn't turn the engine.
The sears spring compressor worked well enough. Although it is a little tight
in some areas if you don't take off the rocker shaft, but it can be done.
The Bad news is that my car (a 1970 TR6) has some non - standard valve springs
on it. (perhaps they are from a later car) and has double springs on both the
intake and exhaust.
The seals fit the valve and guide just fine, but they won't fit inside the
inner spring.
MAJOR BUMMER!
Barring finding a different valve seal that will fit (doubtful with .5" OD on
the guide and about .580" ID on the coil spring)
Or someone lending me some single spring intake valves (which might not work
with my cam for all I know)
I guess I'll be smoking up the road on the way to Winston Salem for the
Gathering.
Oh well,
See you on the road
Scott
--- Scott Tilton <sdtilton@yahoo.com> wrote:
> So Im close to attempting to put valve seals on my 1970 TR6.
>
> I know that it is really just a band-aid until I get around to rebuilding a
> head and putting in a new cam. (Anyone got a spare head they wanna sell?)
>
> I went and bought a Sears $15 valve spring compressor . . the kind that will
> work with the head still on the engine.
>
> And Ive got the pneumatic attachements to put air pressure in the cylinder
> to
> hold the valves up while I take the spring off.
>
>
> Theres a guy here at work who just doesnt believe this will work or is even
> necessary for that matter.
>
> He thinks the air pressure wont hold up the valve enough to allow the
> keepers
> to be removed. He says when I whack the spring down to break them loose,
> Ill
> open the valve, loose the pressure and it will drop.
>
> He also says it wont matter as long as the engine is at top dead center
> cause
> the valve wont fall far enough to lose it anyway.
>
> Anyone been there done that care to comment?
>
>
> Scott Tilton
> Leesburg, VA
>
>
> __________________________________________________
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