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Re: Installing Valve seals on a TR6 - logistics

To: Scott Tilton <sdtilton@yahoo.com>, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Installing Valve seals on a TR6 - logistics
From: <stantr6@bellsouth.net>
Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 20:44:36 -0500
Scott,
It says to use nylon rope.
Got it here.  It says "Position the the piston at a point approximately 45 
degrees before TDC on the compression stroke, then feed in a long piece of 
nylon rope through the spark plug hole until it fills the combustion chamber.  
Be sure to leave the end of the rope hanging out of the engine so it can be 
removed easily.
Use a large ratchet and socket to rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction 
of rotation (clockwise, viewed from the front) until slight resistance is felt."

Note that this is from the Haynes for Saturn, from page 2A-12; Section 2A, part 
9 of the manual.

Hope this helps,
Stan

> 
> From: Scott Tilton <sdtilton@yahoo.com>
> Date: 2002/04/04 Thu PM 07:11:53 EST
> To: stantr6@bellsouth.net
> Subject: Re: Installing Valve seals on a TR6 - logistics
> 
> Yeah I've heard that one.
> Whenever I tell people about it . . they look at me like I'm crazy.
> 
> Interesting that it comes in a Hayne's Saturn manual.
> 
> Does it say specifically what kind of rope?
> Nylon,   or just "soft."
> 
> Very interesting.
> 
> Thank you very much.
> 
> SCott
> --- stantr6@bellsouth.net wrote:
> > Read something interresting in my son's Hayne's for his Saturn - - Feed some
> > soft rope into the cylinder via the plug hole when the piston is down, just
> > starting the compression stroke.  Then manually turn the engine to compress
> > the rope within the cylinder against the valves to hold them in place.
> > 
> > Haven't tried it, but it seems to make sense.
> > Stan
> > 
> > > 
> > > From: Scott Tilton <sdtilton@yahoo.com>
> > > Date: 2002/04/04 Thu PM 01:32:46 EST
> > > To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Installing Valve seals on a TR6 - logistics
> > > 
> > > So Im close to attempting to put valve seals on my 1970 TR6.
> > > 
> > > I know that it is really just a band-aid until I get around to rebuilding 
>a
> > > head and putting in a new cam.  (Anyone got a spare head they wanna sell?)
> > > 
> > > I went and bought a Sears $15 valve spring compressor . . the kind that
> > will
> > > work with the head still on the engine.
> > > 
> > > And Ive got the pneumatic attachements to put air pressure in the 
>cylinder
> > to
> > > hold the valves up while I take the spring off.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Theres a guy here at work who just doesnt believe this will work or is
> > even
> > > necessary for that matter.  
> > > 
> > > He thinks the air pressure wont hold up the valve enough to allow the
> > keepers
> > > to be removed.  He says when I whack the spring down to break them loose,
> > Ill
> > > open the valve, loose the pressure and it will drop.
> > > 
> > > He also says it wont matter as long as the engine is at top dead center
> > cause
> > > the valve wont fall far enough to lose it anyway.
> > > 
> > > Anyone been there done that care to comment?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Scott Tilton
> > > Leesburg, VA
> > > Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> > > http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> Yahoo! Tax Center - online filing with TurboTax
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
> 

Stan Kinmonth
1974 TR6, Frame-off going back together

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