I'm getting into this discussion rather late and don't know what has been
stated earlier. So at the risk of repeating (or making a fool of myself),
I'll speak to the matter from my personal experiences (two Spitfire electric
fan installations).
First of all, the two kits I bought both had a switch with a built in lamp and
3 terminals. The center terminal goes to the positive wire on the
fan. One of the outside two terminals (I can't recall which, but it probably
makes a difference) goes to ground while the other end terminal is
connected to power source. Connecting it incorrectly will not let the lamp
operate properly.
The other fan wire is connected to ground.
Another alternative method is to connect the lead that would normally go to the
hot side of the fan (center connector) to a relay coil and attach the
other side of the relay's coil to ground. The relay contacts are wired as
follows:
The common contact is attached to a voltage source.
the contact that is closed when the relay is actuated, is connected to the
fan's hot terminal and the other side of the fan is connected to ground.
Fuses can be added in both sides of the circuit if desired. The switch circuit
should be a minimum size (Perhaps an amp), because very little current
flows in this side of the system. A fuse in the fan side of the system would
depend on the current draw of the fan. Typically 20 amps is
sufficient. Make sure the wires chosen for the system are rated for the
current requirement of the fan and fuse.
I know of no reason to need a diode in the circuit.
Fan rotation may be changed by one of two methods (depending on the particular
fan.
1. Since DC fans run in the direction of the current flow, reversing the wiring
will change the direction of rotation.
2. Some (if not most) of these fans have a reversible blade assembly that can
be removed and turned around to change a "sucker" to a "blower". Check
the fan's instruction sheet for notes on this possibility.
That's my story and I'm stickin'' to it!!!
Regards,
Joe Curry
Ed Quinn wrote:
>
> Not being the master electrician and looking for a simple solution, I am
> guessing the switch and light is on the hot side. What if the motor were
> isolated from ground (which it may or may not be) and the switch was run on
> the ground side, with the light downstream of the switch? The motor would
> have a hot feed, but only grounded when the switch was on. The generation
> by the fan would then be "cut off" by the switch and not illuminate the
> phantom light.
>
> Am I correct here or merely driving through suburbia in Outer Mongolia?
>
> Ed
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:randallyoung@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 5:01 PM
> Cc: autoX-Trumph List
> Subject: Re: tr6 electric fan conversion
>
> I'm still a bit muzzy from the drive back from Breckenridge, but I think
> the answer is "Yes, but ...". Since the voltage generated by the fan
> motor is the same polarity as the voltage to drive it, the diode would
> have to go between the motor and the relay (or between the motor and
> ground). Either way, the diode will reduce the voltage available to the
> motor, reducing it's cooling effectiveness. The diode will also have to
> be beefy enough to handle the motor starting current, and whatever
> transients it can generate.
>
> Either rewiring the lamp, or living with the 'feature' seems preferable
> to me. Another option _might_ be to use a higher-current bulb, that
> would not glow brightly enough to be seen on the output of the fan
> motor.
>
> Randall
>
> "F. Grant Robertson" wrote:
> >
> > wouldn't a properly placed diode solve all this mess?
> >
> > -fgr
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