Thanks for pointing that out. I forgot to add that between the acid
rinse and the lacquer thinner, I rinsed it out a couple of times with a
baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. Then, the lacquer thinner
washed out the soda solution and dried it out quickly without rust forming
Bill Brewer
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Hooper" <rotoflex@hotmail.com>
To: <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: re: Cleaning Fuel Tank
>
> Cleaning the interior of the tank with muriatic acid may have contributed
to
> the returning rust. You must completely neutralize muriatic acid, or it
> will begin a lifetime project of rusting away whatever steel it has
touched.
>
> I once painted a room containing a theater organ blower; the cement
surfaces
> had to first be scrubbed with muriatic acid. I scrupulously avoided
getting
> the muriatic acid on metal parts such as conduit, disconnects, etc. Even
> after washing these metal surfaces with soap & water, enough of the
muriatic
> acid *from the fumes* remained to begin the rusting process through enamel
> paint, galvanized coatings, etc.
>
>
>
> Original message follows:
> ------------------------------------------
>
> I recently redid my fuel tank for my 1960 TR-3A. For the inside, I
> blocked off the openings and poured in several rinses of muriatic acid
(wear
> proper safety protection). After that, I followed up immediately with
> several rinses with lacquer thinner. If you rinse with water, you get
> immediate rust. After that, I poured in some tank slushing compound that I
> got from MOSS.
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
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