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Re: Removing rear drums on a 250

To: JMardy@aol.com
Subject: Re: Removing rear drums on a 250
From: jstrohm@unisql.unisql.com (Jim Strohm)
Date: Tue, 15 Aug 95 08:53:28 CDT
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Hmm, try some penetrating oil on the adjuster threads, and "peck" on the end of
the adjuster with a hammer.  This may free it up.  If you have the room to get a
15" Crescent wrench (adjustable spanner in TR-talk) on the adjuster, that's the 
best
tool, and don't use anything larger.  Try working the adjuster in both 
directions
to free it, then unscrew.

If it doesn't come loose, try progressively larger amounts of penetrating oil,
waiting for the oil to soak in,  whacks with the hammer, and tugs with the 
wrench.
A torch is your last resort, because of the limited space and the likelihood of
burning the brake hose and cylinder.  If you resort to heat, _use the brazing 
tip_
not the cutting head.

The adjuster should come free easily, with a little persuasion.  Remember it's 
a 
30-year-old car and it may not have ever had the brakes adjusted.  Also, the 
drum may
be rusted to the hub, but the rubber mallet (and penetrating oil at the studs) 
should
cure this.

Just a thought -- I don't know how rusty your hubs are.  You _have_ removed the 
screws
that retain the brake drum (if fitted) haven't you?  If the rust is bad, it's 
easy
to overlook these.  In normal service, of course, the drum pops right off.  The 
likeliest
things preventing this are:
1) screws still installed
2) drum rusted to hub
3) drum is ridged, catching on shoes (feels like 5, below)
4) brakes adjusted too tight
5) broken shoe retaining springs; drum is loose but stuck

Let me know if this helps

Jim

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