> On Mon, 14 Aug 1995, Gary Schneider wrote:
>
> > If its got the square-headed adjuster, the official square wrench is
> > critical. An open-end wrench has too little contact area and will likely
> > round off the adjuster. Then you're _really_ in trouble. The square wrench
> > lets you apply lots of persuasion. Plenty of penetrating oil soaking it for
> > awhile, then heat from a propane torch have always done it for me. It may
>
Later that same day,, Bill Sohl added:
> A good substitute for the correct tool is the following: Go to
> Sears and buy a 3/8" 8 point socket for a 1/4" drive. Use the
> 1/4" side (the 4 point side) on the adjuster and use a regular 3/8
> drive on the 8 point side. That'll give you the best contact
> without worrying about the 3/8 socket slipping.
>
The wrench I have used for years is (was?) from SnapOn. It is an
open-end wrench -- 1/4" & 3/16"? -- but with fairly deep "jaws" that
effectively prevent any rounding off or slipping. It might still be
available. If anyone is interested, I'll look at the wrench tonight and
see what the part number is. (Mind you, I've had it about 20-25 years, so
the part number might have changed.)
Yet another option is to use a REALLY BIG adjustable wrench, say about
12" long or so. Depending on where your adjuster is located, you might
have a problem fitting this wrench into a tight space. However, the length
will give you leverage you can use, and the larger adjustables tend to
have deeper jaws that, when closed up to a 1/4" gap, will not slip easily.
Once you've got it all apart, disassemble and clean up the pieces of the
adjuster and reassemble it with lots of grease. I've always used white
grease (Lubriplate) with excellent results keeping the adjuster free. I
also use this where the cylinder slides on the backing plate and
(sparingly, of course) on the ends of the shoes where they contact the
cylinder or adjuster.
Andrew Mace
10/Herald/Vitesse (Sports 6) Consultant
Vintage Triumph Register
amace@unix2.nysed.gov
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