Yeah, I took a closer look...some of my good washers are AN, the others are
just good washers...
CTP
At 8:14 PM -0500 1/13/98, JustBrits wrote:
>In a message dated 98-01-13 16:47:34 EST, ctp@gbn.org writes:
>
>
>Gents:
>
> The use of AN washers is only called for in certain places!! Regular flats
>belong where they were intended. See Parts Manuel. Load distribution is an
>important factor.
>
>
><< Subj: Re[2]: fasteners
> Date: 98-01-13 16:47:34 EST
> From: ctp@gbn.org (Christopher Palmer)
> Sender: owner-spridgets@autox.team.net
> Reply-to: ctp@gbn.org (Christopher Palmer)
> To: halc@mazda.genauto.com (Hal Cummings), spridgets@autox.team.net
>
> Hal (et al),
>
> Don't get me wrong. I NEVER thought economics was the point, but I have
> known many people who go and buy the cheap stuff because they feel it's
> 'good enuf'.
>
> I only use the 'coffee analogy', because it has been a good way of showing
> those who balk at the price difference, that there isn't ANY reason not to
> use grade 5 and 8 fasteners.
>
> "Is your life worth the cost of 2 weeks of lattes?? I thought not!!"
>
> What you say about washers is spot on. I buy only the best washers...'AN'
> I think they're called...they fit just right, and do the job they are
> supposed to do, much better than junk washers.
>
> CTP
>
> ps-get on your soapbox as often as you want! These are important issues,
> and some of the points CAN NOT be stressed too much.
>
> ok...here's your soapbox back ;-)
>
>
>
> At 12:42 PM -0800 1/13/98, Hal Cummings wrote:
> > Hey Chris,
> >
> > Not to belabor the point, but economics should not be a consideration
> > here. Lives are potentially at stake, to say nothing of the damage
> > done to the car.
> >
> > Another item for consideration was touched on by Brian, and that is
> > washers. It does no good to use the proper fasteners if you use @#$%
> > washers.
> >
> > OK, I'm off my soap box!
> >
> > Hal
> >
> >
> >______________________________ Reply Separator
> >_________________________________
> >Subject: Re: fasteners
> >Author: Christopher Palmer <ctp@gbn.org> at ccout
> >Date: 1/13/98 11:56 AM
> >
> >
> >My 2¢ on fasteners:
> >
> >When re-assembling my 69 Midget, I calculated the difference in price to do
> >the car with grade 5 and 8 bolts versus using ungraded and grade 3...it came
> >out to be less than I spend on coffee in a 2 of weeks. (That's at Orchard
> >Supply Hardware prices)(I do drink a lot of coffee though)
> >
> >>The only thing I've used stainless on was the manifold/block and
> >>manifold/pipe junctions. Are there any others I should change before they
> >>freeze up?
> >Stainless is nice, but even more expensive. I tend not to use it because
> >of the galling problem, although a good anti-seize helps prevent this.
> >
> >>I use brass nuts on studs for the exhaust manifolds of LBC's, brass also
> >>not corroding and not >galling.
> >I find brass to be the best for all exhaust applications, even better than
> >SS with anti seize.
> >
> >>I also use neverseize almost everywhere exposed to weather.
> >Definitely...you will thank yourself 5 years later when trying to remove
> >some bolts which have been out in the weather...and they come off with a
> >wrench (rather than a torch and the jaws-of-life)(who was it that says all
> >anything takes is a checkbook anf high explosives?)
> >
> >CTP
> >
> >
> >At 10:28 AM -0800 1/13/98, Shawn J. Tobin wrote:
> >>Perhaps I SHOULD CLARIFY...
> >>The Grade 2 SS fasteners I used for only holding the fenders
> >>on and light-duty stuff like that. You should always use
> >>grade 5 or 8 for engine or suspension work--8 for brakes.
> >>I've never broken a bolt tightening it but I don't use air tools.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
|