Hey Chris,
Not to belabor the point, but economics should not be a consideration
here. Lives are potentially at stake, to say nothing of the damage
done to the car.
Another item for consideration was touched on by Brian, and that is
washers. It does no good to use the proper fasteners if you use @#$%
washers.
OK, I'm off my soap box!
Hal
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: fasteners
Author: Christopher Palmer <ctp@gbn.org> at ccout
Date: 1/13/98 11:56 AM
My 2¢ on fasteners:
When re-assembling my 69 Midget, I calculated the difference in price to do
the car with grade 5 and 8 bolts versus using ungraded and grade 3...it came
out to be less than I spend on coffee in a 2 of weeks. (That's at Orchard
Supply Hardware prices)(I do drink a lot of coffee though)
>The only thing I've used stainless on was the manifold/block and
>manifold/pipe junctions. Are there any others I should change before they
>freeze up?
Stainless is nice, but even more expensive. I tend not to use it because
of the galling problem, although a good anti-seize helps prevent this.
>I use brass nuts on studs for the exhaust manifolds of LBC's, brass also
>not corroding and not >galling.
I find brass to be the best for all exhaust applications, even better than
SS with anti seize.
>I also use neverseize almost everywhere exposed to weather.
Definitely...you will thank yourself 5 years later when trying to remove
some bolts which have been out in the weather...and they come off with a
wrench (rather than a torch and the jaws-of-life)(who was it that says all
anything takes is a checkbook anf high explosives?)
CTP
At 10:28 AM -0800 1/13/98, Shawn J. Tobin wrote:
>Perhaps I SHOULD CLARIFY...
>The Grade 2 SS fasteners I used for only holding the fenders
>on and light-duty stuff like that. You should always use
>grade 5 or 8 for engine or suspension work--8 for brakes.
>I've never broken a bolt tightening it but I don't use air tools.
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