Click type wrenches give a positive feedback when the torque setting has been
achieved. This is very handy when you cannot look at the gauge (of a beam
type), or are doing fast repetitive torquing like on production runs.
They have drawbacks. You have no way of knowing if the unit is in
calibration or not, and these types *do* drift with use. You also cannot
creep up on a torque value the way you can with a beam type. It's much
harder to detect a problem with the threads or an improperly stretching
fastener. People regularly mis-set these types because they aren't
comfortable with how to read the marks on the shaft.
For detail work, where I'm not worried about time, I much prefer the beam
type. For the inverse reason of those I just outlined above. But if I'm on
the clock, the click type is much faster.
For automotive and home use, I'd recommend the 1/2" drive.
A 3/8" does not go up high enough for the ranges you will frequently need. A
1/4" that reads in lb/in is rarely needed, but it's the only one when these
small torques are called for.
Bradley D Richardson wrote:
> Sears has their 'clicking' torque wrenches on sale. I'm thinking about
> finally getting one, as I have none, not even the old style.
>
> So, what's the wisdom of this list? Are the clicking torque wrenches
> worth the extra money? If so, which would be the most useful on my
> Spitfire, (they have 3/8 inch 10-75 foot/lbs, 3/8 inch 25-250 foot/lbs,
> and 1/2 inch 20-150 foot/lbs, at $59.99 each). The warranty on these are
> 1 year.
>
> The warranty on the old style are lifetime, and about 1/2 the cost.
>
> Brad
> ________________________________________________________________
> http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.
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