I'm sorry, I meant capacitor, and that's what this thing appears to be. haven't
found the exact one on grainger yet, but the pictures on the site look like the
thing on my table right now.
does it have to match the specs exactly? for example, there's a dayton
capacitor that matches specifications, but ony has two spade connectors. I'm
going to assume it's important to hook up all three wires like they came off.
but don't see four spade connectors and those specs. yet.
for that matter, I didn't note how they came off. just plug the three back on
to any of the four spade connectors?
thanks guys. if you're in town, please come swim in my pool--the damn thing is
too much hassle to not have everyone enjoying the thing. perhaps you could also
lend a hand on the triumph bonnet alignment. :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "scott hall" <email@example.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:05:22 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] sigh...now the pool PUMP is out
so there was no hump on the top of the motor, the 'bottom' end of the motor's
cylindrical housing came off, revealing what I hope is a transformer. and I
hope that's what was broken, because I took marcus' advice to heart, removing
it with a pair of pliers, and I destroyed it in the process. It's a black
plastic cylinder, maybe three inches long by one inch in diameter. it has four
spade connectors on one end, three of them were wired up to something in the
motor. the bottom came off revealing a 2-inch long roll of what appears to be
paper wrapped around a plastic (?) rod. like a miniature paper towel-like roll.
I managed to pull the top off the bottom, unrolling the paper. no fluid came
the only thing printed on this thing that I think is pertinent is:
161-193MFD 110VAC 60Hz
OP.T. MAX 65 C
then a date (01/02/2006) and what I assume is a part number.
I'm going to have to replace this thing anyway, does the 110 VAC part sound
okay? it's a 220 motor. or at least it's got a double breaker in the box.
next to this thing and with wired from it was an inverse 'v' of two flexible
metal tabs. there didn't seem to be anything pushing on them, but pushing them
at the 'v's point with a screwdriver seemed to activate a switch underneath
them. might those be points?
I do not see a red button in the housing. in fact, there was nothing that
looked like a reset button at all. must it have one?
the motor is an AO Smith. I am assuming it is older than 2006, but it's
outside, so I guess you never know.
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