Douglas:
The first thing I would do is determine if the problem is the switch or
residual pressure in the system (from another problem). You could accomplish
this by pressing the brake pedal and, while the lights are stuck on, partially
unscrew the switch to release any pressure. This way, you are releasing any
pressure at the point in the system where the trouble is.
On my B, the original switch lasted 35+ years. When I switched to silicone
fluid, it died after a year or so. After that, I bought 2 replacements from
Moss that lasted less than 2 years each. The last one I bought was a US made
part from the local NAPA which I believe is for a VW Type 1 application. It is
a perfect fit and looks similar to the Lucas switch. It has lasted over 2 years
and I am keeping my fingers crossed.
The other responses about potential sources of residual pressure are good
but, after my experience described above, I suspect the switch.
Brian
Douglas Ormrod <Douglas.Ormrod@neurological.org.nz> wrote:
Hi T people
Got my TD engine back in and it appears to be retaining its oil this time. Now
getting it ready for its Warrent of Fitness (NZ road worthiness test). Odd
little problem with the brake lights - they come on OK - but take a while to
go off again - some minutes. I am guessing there is a pressure release
problem. All the cylinders were reconditioned some years ago - including
master cylinder and I renewed all the brake lines and switched to silicone.
The brake switch is original - or at least it came with the car.
Any suggestions for where I should start - master clyinder or switch - or
something else? The brakes seem to work OK - and don't appear to be binding.
/// unsubscribe/change address requests to majordomo@autox.team.net or try
/// http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive/mg-t
|