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Re: Frame and suspension part painting

To: jbenajes@mot.upv.es
Subject: Re: Frame and suspension part painting
From: Bill Snyder <wtsnyder@juno.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:02:26 -0500
Hola, Jesus, and thank you for your reply.
I would love to see pictures of your suspension parts. Although I have
restored 2 MGB's, this is my first attempt at a TD. 
Bill

On Mon, 26 Jan 2004 09:47:22 +0100 "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Jes=FAs_V._Benajes?="
<jbenajes@mot.upv.es> writes:
> Hi Bill,
> 
> Welcome to the fold of T restorers...
> 
> I am also immersed in the process of restoring a 53 TD. One and a 
> half years
> ago I started with minor touch-ups in a daily driver with very good
> cosmetics, and I am still involved in what became practically a 
> ground-up
> restoration.
> 
> I posted the same question on painting the chassis in the MG 
> enthusiasts BBS
> (you must register there - it's free - and you can access to the 
> archives,
> with plenty o invaluable information) and also asked some friends 
> here I
> Spain who restore classic cars. 
> 
> After all the useful inputs I got, I would conclude that practically 
> all
> types of advertised paints would be ok. The decision would depend 
> on
> questions like: the condition of the surface (rusted or 
> sand-blasted), your
> preferred final look (gloss, satin, matt, etc.), the  availability 
> of the
> paints (no problem there in the US, I suppose), if you are going to 
> spray or
> to use a brush and roller, how you will retouch the scratches you 
> will
> surely make in the assembling, etc. Sprayed two-pack paints give 
> generally a
> very nice finish and they use to be hard, but also brittle, and 
> prone to
> chips. The recommendation of a Jaguar restorer was to use some kind 
> of plain
> synthetic (even oil-based) paint, which is very tough and resistant 
> to small
> stones hitting the chassis. It can be easily retouched with brush 
> and
> roller, too. I applied this method to my chassis.
> 
> With respect to suspension parts, I painted them before assembling. 
> I only
> left bare metal in the surfaces that will have some critical 
> coupling or
> relative motion. For small parts it is very practical to use 
> rattle-cans, or
> again a brush and/or a roller.
> 
> 
> If you want, I can send to you some pictures of my painted front and 
> rear
> suspension parts (still not assembled). Really, I have been taken 
> hundreds
> of pictures of the restoring process, so if you need some graphic 
> details of
> something, do not hesitate in asking me.
> 
> Regards and goods luck.
> 
> Jesus
> 
> 
> Jesus Benajes
> Valencia, Spain
> '53 TD
> 
> 
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: owner-mg-t@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mg-t@autox.team.net] En 
> nombre
> de William T Snyder
> Enviado el: sabado, 24 de enero de 2004 16:24
> Para: mg-t@autox.team.net
> Asunto: Frame and suspension part painting
> 
> Hello list. I am starting my '53 TD restoration from the ground up. 
> First
> preparation of that frame and refurbishing the front and rear 
> suspension.
> Do any of you have recommendation about the best paints for frame 
> and
> suspension parts? I have an un molested and relatively rust free 
> chassis,
> and want to keep it that way. Can the same material be used to paint 
> the
> suspension parts? I assume that it would be a good idea to paint 
> the
> suspension parts before installing new seals and bushings(?). Does 
> anyone
> have strong feelings about regular bushings vs. poly urethane?
> 
> Thanks for you input and for your comments and suggestions about 
> wood
> floor parts.
> 
> Bill Snyder
> Waynesville, NC
> '53 TD (in boxes)
> 
> 
> 


W. T. Snyder, II

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